Every so often you come across a watchmaker who has a genuinely unique approach to watchmaking that totally changes how you think about watches. Off the top of my head one of the most exciting is Holthinrichs, who produce watches using cutting edge metal 3D printing. In fact, Holthinrichs they’ve just announced their latest project, the Holthinrichs Deconstructed.
Conceptually the new watch is inspired by the deconstructivism movement in art and architecture. Deconstructivism is a movement that involves dissecting and analysing structures in order to challenge existing concepts and reassemble them in new configurations. It’s an approach that goes hand in hand with the process of 3D printing as you literally have to deconstruct and map out every tiny facet of the watch in order to create it.
The first area of the watch that displays these deconstructed ideas is the case. It measures 38.5mm and is made from 3D printed titanium, a first for the brand. The incredible strength of titanium has allowed them to re-evaluate the individual aspects of the watch in unexpected styles. That’s particularly evident on the Deconstructed’s lugs, which are skeletonised and exceptionally thin. They’re attached to the case by the slimmest of connections, creating the illusion that the lugs are levitating next to the case.
Another nod to the modernist concepts behind the Holthinrichs Deconstructed is the decision to allow certain artifacts of the production process to be displayed as a form of finishing. Specifically, the crown and portions of the lugs and bracelet show the rough texture and layered appearance that can be caused by 3D printing. It gives the piece an interesting brutalist aesthetic.
Moving to the dial and the idea of deconstruction has been taken a little more literally here through a partially skeletonised display. It features concentric layers that slowly reveal more and more of the inner workings of the movement. Around the periphery is an hour and minute scale set into floating sectors that then lead into an open-worked small seconds subdial and lastly the floating central hand stack surrounded by the skeletonised calibre.
Coincidentally, the movement itself is first one that Holthinrichs has been directly involved in the development of. They began developing it back in 2017 alongside some Dutch manufactures using the Peseux 7001 as a base – the main focus of the development was a new balance wheel with free-spring hairspring and white gold inertia weights. The movement features a 45-hour power reserve and has a frequency of 21,600 vph. It’s finished by hand with a combination of circular brushing and anglage, which looks great through the exhibition caseback and, naturally, the skeletonised portion of the dial.
The Holthinrichs Deconstructed is limited to 20 pieces made to request at a price of €35,000 ex. VAT (approx. £30,200). As it’s made to order, Holthinrichs is also offering the opportunity for customisation and personalisation by anodising portions of the case and bracelet with alternative colours. I think the Deconstructed is a really exciting watch because it feels like the brand is really starting to spread their wings after their first few watches proved that the 3D printing concept works. I look forward to what Avant Garde watches they’ll release in future.
Price & Specs:
- Model: Holthinrichs Deconstructed
- Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter x 6.95mm thickness, skeletonised 3D printed titanium with contrasting raw and brushed finish, skeletonised dial
- Movement: Holthinrichs calibre HW-M01, manual movement, in-house
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
- Strap: Integrated rubber DECON with 3D printed Holthinrichs buckle or 3D printed titanium deconstructed bracelet with quick release system
- Price/availability: From €35,000 (ex. VAT), limited to 20 pieces