This week Piaget launched the Polo 79 Two-Tone, a watch that combined the previous yellow gold and white gold editions into a single, bi-metal expression. In a strange coincidence, Hermès have now done the exact opposite with the Slim D’Hermès Squelette Lune. The original model from 2021 is made with a titanium case body and platinum bezel, but now they’re expanding the range with a full titanium edition and a full platinum edition.
In terms of overall design, the two new additions to the Slim D’Hermès Squelette Lune are the same as their predecessor. They measure 39.5mm in diameter with a round case, smooth bezel and long, thin lugs. Where the new editions differ is obviously the materials. The titanium one is naturally sportier (though not exactly sporty) thanks to the lightweight properties and innate strength. It’s also darker in colour, which has been emphasised by a further anthracite colour DLC coating on its bezel, which also boosts scratch resistance.
In contrast, the platinum edition is very bright thanks to the natural lustre of the metal as well as its high sheen polished finish. It’s also an incredibly difficult material to work with because of its high density, which gives it a high melting point and resistance to common types of finishing such as polishing – requiring specialised equipment. However, the results speak for themselves and make it all the more worthwhile.
For the skeletonised display, it’s a similar story as with the case. Meaning that the structure and layout of the new watches is the same as the bi-metal one but the execution is different. Starting again with the titanium one, it has a dark grey minute track and moonphase with sunburst finishing while the main skeleton portion of the display is a lighter silver colour finished with brushing and bevelled edges. In the centre sit matching baton hour and minute hands.
For the platinum, blue is the colour of choice with the timing scales and skeletonised bridges all in a matching shade. Amusingly, I drew comparisons between the 2021 model and the Piaget Polo Skeleton, but with the new blue colouration here, the comparison is even more appropriate than ever before. This display is actually an inverse of the 2021 watch, which had blue hands and anthracite bridges.
The movement on display in all its skeleton glory is the H1953 ultra-thin – measuring just 3.57mm in thickness. It has a micro-rotor, visible through the exhibition caseback, which supplies a 48-hour power reserve. Though my favourite detail is the moonphase at 6 o’clock, which looks great with its photorealistic moon discs.
For pricing, each version has two prices depending on whether you opt for the calf or alligator strap. The titanium on alligator is £20,130 or on calf is £19,980 while the platinum is £34,040 or £33,890 respectively. Those prices mean that the bi-metal 2021 edition sits between them at £24,050 although it is only available on alligator. It’s nice when you can see the logic behind a pricing system because it helps justify the value.
Price and Specs:
More details at Hermès.
