New Releases Watches

H. Moser & Cie. Launch “Perpetual Calendar for Dummies”

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue

Moser & Cie. are masters of the perpetual calendar. Look no further than the fact all four of their main collections (Endeavor, Pioneer, Streamliner and Heritage) sport at least one example of the haute horological complication. Plus, three of those perpetual calendars have been launched or updated within the last seven months, the Heritage Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel, the Streamliner Streamliner Perpetual Calendar and as of now the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue. There are two versions of the updated Endeavour, a regular edition and a limited edition “Perpetual Calendar for Dummies”.

Structurally, both watches are identical and are based on the 2015 Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue. They retain the original curvaceous shape, staying in line with the other watches in the Endeavour collection. The only notable change is that the 18K white gold cases have been enlarged to 42mm from 40.8mm. While on paper it’s a small change, it helps the watches maintain their contemporary feel.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue dial

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial dial

As for the dial, that is where the two new versions take drastically different paths. The regular edition, ref. 1800-0204, focuses on minimalism allowing the blue fumé to be the central focus. It achieves this by simplifying the power reserve indicator and tiny central months hand, as well as replacing the white H. Moser & Cie. name with transparent lacquer. As for the rest of the functions that make up a perpetual calendar there’s a date window as 3 o’clock and leap year indicator on the back. Although if you’re struggling to follow, the second watch should make everything clear.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial wristshot

The limited edition “Perpetual Calendar for Dummies” ref. 1800-0205 is the opposite of minimalist. Its dial is filled with a delicate scrawl of scribbled notes that explain each of the functions present on the watch. There are annotations for the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, the central month hand, the oversize flash change date window and rear mounted leap year indicator. There are even notes how to use the ‘fool proof’ crown to change the date, which can be done at any time unlike the majority of Perpetual calendars.

My particular favourite annotation is the one explaining that February can occasionally have an extra day in it. H. Moser & Cie. might be Swiss, but their humour is entirely dry and British, which is the highest compliment I can give.

HMC 800 Manufacture calibre

Inside, both models house the HMC 800 Manufacture calibre, a manual wind movement with a 7-day power reserve. Of course, its most renowned quality is the ability to adjust the date of its perpetual calendar complication at any time of day, whereas the majority require careful adjustment at specific times. Hence, the “Perpetual Calendar for Dummies” edition celebrating the watch’s simplicity. Drawing attention to how needlessly complex perpetual calendars are from other brands.

H.Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue ref. 1800-0204
H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial ref. 1800-0205

The regular edition is priced at CHF 54,000 while the limited edition of 20 pieces is CHF 59,000 (approx. £43,165/£47,160). Definitely the price of a precious metal watch with a high complication but at the same time not the £80,000 of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar I mentioned at the start of this article.

Price & Specs:

Model: H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue & Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial
Reference: 1800-0204 (dial decorated with transparent lacquer logo), 1800-0205 (dial decorated with scrawled with notes and drawings)
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 11.9mm height, 18K white gold case, funky blue fumé with sunburst patterned dial
Movement: In-house HMC 800 calibre, manual winding, 32 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 168h (7 days)
Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, big date display at 3 o’clock, month indicator via central hand, seconds dial at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap: Hand-stitched beige kudu leather
Price/availability: CHF 54,000 (approx. £43,165 / dial decorated with transparent lacquer logo) and CHF 59,000 (approx. £47,160 / dial decorated with scrawled with notes and drawings), limited edition of 20 pieces

More details at H.Moser & Cie.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.