My opinions on H. Moser & Cie.’s last major watch release, the Genesis, were mixed. The concept and execution of the piece were stunning but I don’t think I’ll ever be a fan of a QR Code on a watch, whether it’s Moser or Bulgari (LINK TO: /bulgari-octo-finissimo-ultra/). On the other hand, their latest launch may well be my favourite H. Moser of all time. It’s the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel and it introduces a tantalum case to H. Moser’s collections for the first time.
Tantalum is a metal that you rarely see in watchmaking, to the extent that platinum is more common and we all know how exclusive that precious metal is. The fact that tantalum has a melting point of 3000°C makes it incredibly difficult to work with and its hard surface with corrosion resistant properties make it a trick to finish. Most watchmakers opt for simple finishes like brushing or sandblasting but H. Moser wanted to push things a step further with a polished finish.
Overall, it took them two years to master the art of creating polished tantalum cases. That time has been well spent because it looks fantastic. 42mm in diameter with a dark grey colour that gives a bluish tint to its reflections. The style of the case is based on the Endeavour collection, which means it has sweeping curves and a large, smooth bezel that really emphasises the metal.
However, the beauty of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel doesn’t stop at the case because the dial is just as captivating. Made from Grand Feu enamel on top of a hammered base, the texture is stunning, akin to that of the Lime Concept from last year. Of course, instead of green the new dial is blue, with a gentle fumé gradient from an almost cream tone in the centre to an electric blue at the edges.
As for the perpetual calendar display, it’s subtle enough that you almost wouldn’t notice it, especially in static images. The most obvious elements are the central hours and minutes hands, as well as the date window at 3 o’clock. But then when you look closer you’ll realise that the indexes at 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock aren’t actually indexes but a power reserve indicator and small seconds respectively. Take another look at the central hand stack and you’ll spot a tiny third hand, which points to the position on the dial related to the month, 1 through 12.
Powering the perpetual calendar complication is the HMC 800 manual winding calibre with a 7-day power reserve courtesy of a double barrel system. A 7-day reserve is seriously impressive and means despite the fact the HMC 800 is manual, it isn’t major inconvenience to keep it wound, particularly as the reserve indicator means you don’t have to remember when you last wound it. One last thing to note is that there’s a leap year indicator visible on the rear of the movement through the exhibition caseback, proving it’s perpetuality.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is joining H. Moser & Cie.’s regular Endeavour collection at a price of CHF 75,000 (approx. £66,950). That is on the more expensive side even by H. Moser standards, but the combination of the rare case, sublime enamel dial and haute horology movement justify it. It really is spectacular.
Price & Specs:
- Model: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel
- Ref: 1800-2000
- Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 13.1mm thickness, tantalum and stainless steel case, abyss blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
- Movement: HMC calibre 800, manual winding, 32 jewels
- Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
- Power reserve: 168h (7 days)
- Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, date, month indicator, power reserve indicator, leap year cycle indicator
- Strap: Hand stitched grey Kadu leather
- Price/availability: CHF 75,000 (approx. £66,950)