Christophe Claret Celebrates 10th Anniversary with Angelico Watch

Christophe Claret Angelico Watch

As the independent haute horology of Christophe Claret celebrates 10 years of existence, the brand has created a piece that harks back to the early days of watchmaking for their first anniversary timepiece: the Angelico.

This year Christophe Claret is celebrating an odd double anniversary. One the one hand, it’s 10 years since the founding of his eponymous brand; on the other, it’s 30 years since the founding of his manufacture. For many a watchmaker those two are one and the same, but for Claret, who spent the first 20 years as an in-demand horological auteur, it took 20 years before his name graced the dial of his own timepieces.

Christophe Claret Angelico Watch Christophe Claret Angelico Watch

Fortunately, this last decade has been a whirlwind for Chrisophe Claret who, as one of those independent watchmakers of the highest echelon, has kept himself busy building some serious timepieces at the bleeding edge of horology. None embodies that more than the new Angelico.

Marine chronometers are often cited as an inspiration for watches, but few can capture the machines’ eternal quest for unprecedented accuracy. The Angelico is one of the few. Not only does it contain a tourbillon – par for the course in high watchmaking nowadays – it has a long detent escapement with a cable-type fusee transmission system.

Christophe Claret Angelico Watch

The escapement in question was only ever used in marine chronometers despite its accuracy as it generally has one drawback: lateral impacts. That is to say, it can’t survive on the wrist. That is of course unless you add the kind of safety features previously used in Christophe Claret’s Maestoso timepiece.

At the same time, the fusee transmission system is the closest thing modern watchmaking has to true constant force, wherby timekeeping accuracy is consistent no matter how much energy is in the movement – i.e. it’s just as accurate nearly wound-down as it is fully wound. The result is unprecedented accuracy over time.

Christophe Claret Angelico MVT.DTC08

Caliber MVT.DTC08

Did we already mention that it looks fantastic too? We probably should have. The inane, multi-level dial is nothing if not striking. It’s available in two colourways: black and red gold or titanium and grey. For us, it’s all about the latter mainly thanks to the flashes of blue highlighting the unusual escapement. The depth is magnificent; even with a 45.5mm case, the sharply curving sapphire dome has its work cut out for it containing the vast amount of technicality across the watch.

Limited to just 10 pieces in each metal, we’ve yet to see prices for the Angelico. You can be sure though, it’s going to be a serious investment piece.

Price & Specs:

      • Model Name: Christophe Claret Angelico
        Ref: MTR.DTC08.020-030 (titanium), MTR.DTC08.000-010 (red gold)
      • Dial/Case: 45.50 mm diameter x 17.45 mm height, 5N red gold or grade 5 titanium case
      • Movement: DTC08, mechanical hand-wound, tourbillon with detent escapement and cable-type fusee
      • Functions: Time and instant-jump dual-time display with day/night indicator
        Water Resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)                   

        Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
      • Power Reserve: 72 hours
      • Price & Availability: CHF 218’000 (titanium) or CHF 238’000 (red gold), limited edition of 10 models each

Discover more at Christophe Claret’s website.

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.

Subscribe to Our Newsletter?