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A Beginner’s Guide to Every Omega Model

A Beginners Guide to Every Omega Model

In Omega’s history there are dozens of achievements that could be considered their crowning glory. In 1969 they were the first watchmaker to send a timepiece to the moon and they’ve been the official timekeepers of the Olympic games since 1932, that’s almost a century. In more recent times they’ve taken the internet world by storm with the successful #SpeedyTuesday on Instagram, celebrating all things Speedmaster.

Their range of timepieces is astonishingly diverse, quite literally ranging from the moon to the depths of the ocean, and everywhere in-between. So how well do you really know Omega? Test your knowledge with this handy beginner’s guide to every Omega model in the current collection.

The Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

The Speedmaster is perhaps the most iconic range of chronographs outside of the Rolex Daytona, placing them in the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts alike. The formula is a simple one: vintage, racing charm combined with high-performance movements. It’s a recipe that has taken them to the moon and back on the wrists of every Apollo astronaut.

At the forefront of the range is the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional but don’t dismiss the Speedmaster 38, Dark Side of the Moon or any of the other variants that add their own unique spin to the watch. Each and every one comes from a long heritage of exceptional timepieces.

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Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

The original Moonwatch has been practically untouched since it was launched into the stratosphere of horological iconography in 1969. Omega’s Speedmaster ST 105.012 equipped the Apollo 11 astronauts and has been a part of spacefaring history ever since. The formula has been tweaked over the years with the occasional updated movement like the Calibre 1861 and in 2021 the Calibre 3861. On the whole, the design and feel of the modern Moonwatch is very faithful to the original.

The updated 3861 is Master Chronometer Certified, ensuring that it’s incredibly accurate and magnetic resistant – not to mention it has a 50-hour power reserve, which is very good. There are four versions in the modern collection, a stainless steel version with a choice of hesalite glass or sapphire crystal and two gold versions.

Ref: 310.30.42.50.01.001
Case/Dial:
42mm diameter x 13.2mm thickness, stainless steel, black dial with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 3861, manual-winding, 50h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £6,600

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Speedmaster 38 Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 38mm

Speedmaster 38

A slightly more refined take on the iconic chronograph is the Speedmaster 38, which takes the heritage design back to a more retro case sizing of 38mm diameter – in comparison with the Moonwatch’s 42mm. It gives the Speedmaster a gentler, more elegant feel that is emphasised by the oval subdials inspired by Omega’s De Ville collection of more artisanal timepieces.

Last year the collection was expanded to include yellow gold and Sedna™ gold variants, boosting the refinement further and giving the sporty chronograph an interesting makeover, although we prefer the quirkier colourways like the blue as they give a less serious tone to the watch. Housed inside is the Calibre 3330 with a great 52-hour power reserve – what’s a Speedmaster without a suitably mighty movement.

Ref: 324.30.38.50.03.001 
Case/Dial:
38mm diameter x 14.7mm thickness stainless steel, sun-brushed blue dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 3330, automatic, 52h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,300

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Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 310.92.44.50.01

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

The Speedmaster range known as the Dark Side of the Moon is Omega’s homage to cutting edge materials and as such, are the Speedmasters least caught up in their heritage. The basic version is constructed from a single piece of black zirconium oxide ceramic, a material that is being used more and more in watchmaking.

The most recent addition to the line-up is the Apollo 8 with Saturn V hand, a piece featuring a dial textured like the dark side of the moon and a small seconds hand shaped like the rocket that took astronauts there. It rides an interesting line between cutting edge and retro, like much of the technology popularised during the space race.

Ref: 310.92.44.50.01.001
Case/Dial: 44.25mm diameter x 13mm thickness, black ceramic case, semi skeletonised black dial with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 3869, automatic, 50h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £13,500

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Speedmaster Calibre 321 Chronograph 38.6mm

Speedmaster Calibre 321

These days Omega is renowned for the quality of its in-house movements, a reputation that began with the legendary Calibre 321 mid-century. It was this movement that received the go ahead from Nasa and accompanied all manned space missions including Apollo 11.

While the original helped pin Omega’s name firmly to the map, you can still pick up a modern replica created by Omega’s dedicated Calibre 321 workshop. It has all the same specifications down to its manual wind and 55-hour power reserve. The tribute is housed in a heritage-style stainless steel case with retro features such as the dot over the 90 on the bezel.

Ref: 311.50.39.30.01.001
Case/Dial:
38.6mm diameter x 13.9mm thickness, Canopus Gold case, black dial with 60m (6 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 321, manual-winding, 55h power reserve
Strap: Canopus Gold bracelet
Price: £86,100

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Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024

Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024

Rounding out the Speedmaster collection are a mixture of heritage pieces and unique complications such as moonphases. We’ve chosen to highlight the Chronoscope that has been designed to measure practically every environmental factor you could want. Speed, distance and your heart rate can all be calculated with the chronograph function.

Similar to the other Speedmasters, it is available in a range of materials including stainless steel and bronze, allowing you to choose if you want to prioritise durability and scratch resistance or enjoy life at a cruising pace. The latest edition of the Chronoscope was produced for the Paris Olympic games.

Ref: 522.30.43.51.02.001
Case/Dial:
43mm diameter x 13mm thickness, stainless steel case, silver dial with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 9908, manual winding, 60h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £9,300

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Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X‑33 Chronograph 45mm

Speedmaster Skywalker X‑33

Its name might sound like it’s out of Star Wars but the Speedmaser Skywalker X-33 is anything but science fiction. Created in collaboration with the European Space Agency, it’s Omega’s only anadigi display in the current collection. Anadigi, for those unfamiliar, means it features both a traditional analogue display with hands and a digital, LCD display.

It’s based on the Speedmaster Professional X-33 from 1998 and has a single purpose of space exploration. Afterall, while a vintage chronograph like the Moonwatch is undoubtably stylish and captures the romance of space travel, there are certain practical uses a digital watch is better suited to. Especially with a cutting-edge quartz movement at the helm.

Ref: 318.90.45.79.01.001
Case/Dial:
45mm diameter x 14.7mm thickness, titanium case, black dial with an LCD display with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 5619, highly precise thermo-compensated multi-functional quartz, 24 month battery life
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £5,500

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Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase New Moon

MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase New Moon Snoopy

You probably never expected to be able to procure a Speedmaster Moonwatch for just £270, well you can… sort of. Omega have collaborated with Swatch on an extensive series of accessible watches inspired by the design of the Moonwatch, which they have dubbed the Omega MoonSwatch.

Each of the original 11 watches is styled after an iconic celestial body from within our Solar System, expanding the Moonwatch’s horizons beyond Earth and the moon. The second series was dedicated to the different types of moon each with a different chronograph hand and the newest editions are the full and new moon featuring Snoopy.

Ref: SO33B700
Case/Dial:
42mm diameter x 13.75mm thickness, black bioceramic case, black dial with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Quartz chronograph movement with moonphase indicator
Strap: Velcro
Price: £270

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Omega Speedmaster ’57

Speedmaster ’57

Originally launched back in 2013, the Speedmaster ’57 nonetheless has a pedigree that dates far further back, as the name suggests, to the first speedy model of 1957. That said, it’s not the most faithful to the formula, even if it feels the most retro in the wider collection.

It’s bi-compax layout is at odds with the tri-compax of the original and, while it does have the occasional heritage touch – the straight lugs and the bracelet mainly – it’s very much its own entity. Which is why it’s exciting to see Omega giving the Speedmaster ’57 some breathing room with multiple interesting colours.

Ref: 332.10.41.51.10.001
Case/Dial:
40.5mm diameter stainless steel case, green dial with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 9906, manual winding, 60h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £8,900

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The Seamaster

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Blue Summer' 75th Anniversary

Heading under the water we find Omega’s dedicated diving range that keeps even the likes of a Submariner on its toes. From the Seamaster 300’s vintage charms to the Diver 300m’s modern capabilities there’s every reason to consider picking up a Seamaster over their more expensive rivals.

At a simple level, a diving watch doesn’t need much to excel, a legible dial, a rugged construction and a little bit of nautical or heritage flair. It’s these basics that Omega have mastered to create what might be the most quintessential diving watches around.

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Omega Seamaster 300 Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

Seamaster 300

The Seamaster 300, alongside the first Speedmaster and Railmaster, was part of Omega’s landmark ‘Professional Trilogy’ in 1957 that sought to bring high-end watchmaking into the workplace. Albeit the Seamaster 300 is dedicated to a workplace that consists of a highly pressurised environment under the waves that very few people find themselves consistently working in.

In Omega’s current collection the Seamaster 300 is a heritage model that seeks to emulate the vintage feel of the original timepiece. Although that hasn’t stopped them from using it as a testing ground for their recently announced new alloy called Bronze Gold. The combination of modern technology and vintage style makes for a very attractive watch with slimmer proportions than most of Omega’s contemporary divers.

Ref: 234.92.41.21.10.001
Case/Dial:
41mm diameter x 14.4mm thickness, bronze gold case, brown dial with 300m (30 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8912, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £12,800

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Green

Seamaster Diver 300m

If the 300 was Omega’s signature diver 60 years ago, then the Diver 300m is its modern counterpart. It embodies all the features that are synonymous with diving watches: it’s large, legible, has a unidirectional bezel with a dive timer and has heaps of nautical character. The instantly recognisable wave pattern dial is available in numerous colours, including this glorious green as of 2022. And of course, they’re water resistant to 300m.

The Seamaster Diver 300m collection is also comprised of numerous special editions such as the James Bond and 007 pieces that honour the brand’s partnership with the international man of mystery. The America’s Cup chronograph edition is particularly cool as it adds new functions to the watch without compromising on its signature aesthetics.

Ref: 210.32.42.20.10.001
Case/Dial:
42mm diameter x 13.6mm thickness, stainless steel case, green dial with 300m (30 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8800, automatic, 55h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £5,300

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Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m 220.10.38.20.10.003

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m

The Aqua Terra, as its name suggests, is an amphibious watch that is as at home in the water as on dry land. At least in theory. It forgoes the usual massive bezel and dive timer for a more sedate, unadorned and unmoving metallic ring, placing it at the sportier end of the dress watch spectrum – especially in gold or bi-colour. For 2024, the Aqua Terra received a cool new olive green edition.

While the water resistance might be lower than the Diver 300m’s, at 150m, the Aqua Terra is still mechanically adept with a choice of three Omega master chronometer movements, the 8900, 8901 or 8800.

Ref: 220.10.38.20.10.002
Case/Dial: 38mm diameter x 12.2mm thickness, stainless steel case, green dial with 150m (15 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8800, automatic, 55h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,900

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Boutique Edition 215.32.44.21.01.002

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m

If you want to go to the deep-down darkness of the depths, then the Planet Ocean is more up your street. It has a high water resistance rating of 600m – which it must be said is less than half the Rolex Sea Dweller’s 1220m. Although, for the average diver, 600m provides a safety net of about 550m so really, I wouldn’t worry about it.

The Planet Ocean features high-tech materials like ceramic and ceragold to ensure that it’s sturdy enough for the deep while also providing a modern twist on classic diver’s watch aesthetics. It has a much plainer dial than the 300m, without any patterning, that gives it a cool and minimalist feeling. Like Omega’s other divers there are also collaborative versions with additional design features.

Ref: 215.32.44.21.01.002
Case/Dial:
43.5mm diameter x 16.2mm thickness, stainless steel case, grey dial with 600m (60 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8900, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £6,700

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Co-Axial Master Chronometer 227.32.55.21.03.001

Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Summer Blue

The Planet Ocean isn’t the only Omega built to withstand insane depth, the heritage Seamaster Ploprof is water resistant up to 1200m. The Ploprof was first created in 1970 as the Professional 600 and bore the signature features that can be found on its modern reimagining: a bi-directional rotating bezel with a security pusher on its shoulder at 2 o’clock, a helium escape valve and a guarded crown.

Its unique design makes it instantly recognisable and has garnered it a strong following over the years. 2023’s heritage version is the most advanced to date, housing the magnetic resistant master chronometer calibre 8912 and a summer blue dial in keeping with Omega’s 75th anniversary colours.

Ref: 227.32.55.21.03.001
Case/Dial:
55mm width x 45mm height x 15.5mm thickness, O-Megasteel (stainless steel) case, blue dial with 1200m (120 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8912, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: Blue rubber
Price: £13,500

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Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep 6000m Co-Axial Master Chronometer 75th Anniversary Summer Blue 215.30.46.21.03.002

Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Summer Blue

The story of Omega’s new Ultra Deep collection started back in 2019 when they create a unique watch that journeyed into the depths of the Mariana Trench. Now though, in 2022, that concept is being made accessible to the public in four versions with 6000m water resistance called the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Collection.

Of the four watches that make up the collection, one has a titanium case and the other three are made from “O-MEGASTEEL”, a new high performance alloy from Omega. O-MEGASTEEL is twice as durable and 40% more scratch resistant (300 Vickers) than conventional steels used in watchmaking, as well as being shinier, whiter and more corrosion resistant. However, all four have the same dimensions and specifications of 45.5mm diameter, chunky 18.12mm height and water resistance to 6000m. Safe to say that these are watches you can’t slip under your cuff.

Ref: 215.30.46.21.03.002
Case/Dial:
45.5mm diameter x 18.1mm thickness, O-Megasteel (stainless steel) case, blue dial with 6,000m (600 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8912, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: O-Megasteel (stainless steel) bracelet
Price: £12,300

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Omega Seamaster Bullhead Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 43mm

Seamaster Bullhead

Chronograph diving watches are always a little odd because divers require legibility first and foremost, and chronographs can have some of the most cluttered dials of any complication. This makes chronograph divers a novelty, one that is typified by the Seamaster Bullhead, a niche timepiece within the Omega heritage range. The Bullhead is a racing chronograph that feels like it would be more at home as a Speedmaster but finds itself under the Seamaster name.

The Bullhead’s most distinctive feature is its symmetrical, curved trapezium case that is halfway between a rectangle, a cushion case and a triangle. The shape is further emphasised by the positioning of the pushers at the top of the case, along the wider edge – the horns of the bull so to speak.

Ref: 225.12.43.50.01.001
Case/Dial:
43mm diameter x 14.9mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial with 150m (15 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 3113, automatic, 52h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £8,900, limited to 669 pieces

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The De Ville

Omega De Ville

The Speedmaster and Seamaster show off Omega’s mastery of sporty, professional watches but refined elegance is well within their wheelhouse too. In fact, the De Ville line actually started its life as a subcategory of Seamaster before it was separated into its own collection that focussed on more streamlined designs.

It would be easy to apply the label of ‘ladies watches’ to many of the models in the De Ville collection but in the modern day such arbitrary definitions are being challenged. Style is style no matter who wears it or who the intended customer is.

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Omega De Ville Trésor Master Co‑axial Chronometer 435.13.40.21.03.002

De Ville Trésor

The Trésor collection is lauded for their thin cases, which are available at a 36mm diameter with a quartz movement or 40mm with a master chronometer mechanical movement. They have very refined hour markers and frequently use Roman numerals, especially at the smaller sizes.

This edition of the Trésor is one of the most subtle with a sunray brushed dial. Although more extravagant versions with diamond bezels and patterned dials are also available. A collection characterised by its pure elegance.

Ref: 435.13.40.21.03.002
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 10.1mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8926, manual winding, 72h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £7,300

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Omega De Ville Prestige Co‑Axial Chronometer 434.10.41.21.03.001

De Ville Prestige

For a down-the-line dress watch, look no further than the Prestige, Omega’s most popular non-sports timepiece. There are styles, customisation options and colours galore, making for a versatile watch that you can match to your preferences and tastes. The range is unified by its sweeping, round case which has a smooth, polished finish and chronometer status calibres.

There are some particularly nice examples within the range such as the steel Prestige power reserve and the steel and red gold bi-colour, but for us the classy black is king. The overall design is subtle enough that it will pair well with any outfit without being overwhelming, that is unless you opt for the £35,000 full gold and diamond version.

Ref: 434.10.41.21.03.001
Case/Dial:
41mm diameter x 10.8mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8810, automatic, 55h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,700

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Omega De Ville Tourbillon Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 43mm

De Ville Tourbillon

Tourbillons are one of the most spectacular pieces of haute horology that you’ll see fairly frequently from top-end watchmakers, so it’s little surprise that Omega have a couple under their belt. The Master Chronometer Tourbillon is the first ever Omega tourbillon movement to achieve master chronometer certification, making it a landmark mechanism in their history.

The tourbillon is unusually mounted in the centre of the dial with the hour and minute hands appearing to orbit around it – giving it a very sophisticated yet futuristic design that reminds me of an orchestra, with dissonant parts harmonising to create a full symphony. There is also a larger blue version known as the Masterpiece in Blue.

Ref: 529.53.43.22.01.001
Case/Dial:
43mm Sedna Gold and Canopus Gold case, black dial with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 2640, manual-winding central tourbillon, 72h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £187,400

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Omega De Ville Ladymatic Co‑Axial Chronometer 425.30.34.20.55.002

De Ville Ladymatic

While anyone can wear any watch, the Ladymatic simply oozes feminine style that makes it clear who the intend wearer is – if the name didn’t already make that clear. The dainty 34mm diameter case, available in a variety of materials, is made even daintier by its super thin, lugless connection to the bracelet.

Even the simplest full steel version features diamond hour markers, white gold hands and a mother-of-pearl dial for incredible refinement. However, that doesn’t mean Omega haven’t gone to town on its construction, giving it a 100m water resistance, which is far deeper than you’d ever want to take this elegant piece of wristcandy.

Ref: 425.30.34.20.55.002
Case/Dial:
34mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel case, white dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8520, automatic, 50h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £8,200

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The Constellation

Omega Constellation

Omega might be associated with the moon, but that doesn’t mean their aspirations don’t go further beyond, the constellation collections representing the height of their mechanical and material developments. One way to think about them is that these watches take the high performance sports elements from Omega’s other watches and transpose them into more style-focused timepieces.

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Omega Constellation Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

Constellation

The Constellation collection stands out for its signature features: four claws, half-moon facets, Roman numerals and single gold star. They are available in 41mm, 39mm and 36mm diameter case dimensions with optional gemstones. Just as there are a range of external options, there a couple of different calibres that can be found in the collection, all of them master chronometer certified and at the higher end of Omega’s capabilities.

However, it’s the wide variety of dials that are really attractive. Sun-brushed blues and stippled patterns that are vaguely reminiscent of meteorite dials – further emphasising the cosmic concept behind the star emblazoned collection.

Ref: 131.33.41.21.04.001
Case/Dial:
41mm diameter x 13.5mm thickness, stainless steel case, white dial with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Omega calibre 8900, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £6,700

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Omega Globemaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39mm

Constellation Globemaster

When it comes to distinctive dials, the Globemaster pays homage to the 1952 Constellation’s iconic pie-pan. Surrounding the dial is a fluted bezel, which is cool and just about distinctive enough not to draw comparisons to Rolex’s own signature flutes. Of course, the Globemaster wouldn’t be an Omega without numerous case material and dial colour options, from stainless steel to sedna gold.

What makes the Globemaster special is that it was the first timepiece Omega created to achieve master chronometer status, which if you’ve read this entire article, you’ll know is par for the course now. In celebration of the achievement, the caseback bears the engraving of an observatory with eight symbolic stars.

Ref: 130.53.39.21.02.002
Case/Dial:
39mm diameter x 12.6mm thickness, yellow gold case, silver coloured dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance, silver dial
Movement: Omega calibre 8901, automatic, 60h power reserve
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: £23,800

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1 Comment

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  • If this is truly a “A Beginner’s Guide to Every Omega Model” then where is the game changing Speedmaster Super Racing mentioned?

    This takes the accuracy and engineering standards we are used to like COSC (-4/+6 seconds), and METAS (0/+5 seconds), then looks a ROLEX’s Superlative Chronometer Standards (-2/+2) and says “Superlative Meh!”. This beauty is built to 0/+2 seconds per day – and has 15X+ more GAUSS resistance than ROLEX’s MILGAUSS.

    Surely worth a mention. I am a sucket for buying the most accurate / thinnest / lightest … and this is top of my grail list at the moment.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.