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A Beginner’s Guide To Every Omega Model

A Beginners Guide To Every Omega Model

In Omega’s history there are dozens of achievements that could be considered their crowning glory. In 1969 they were the first watchmaker to send a timepiece to the moon and they’ve been the official timekeepers of the Olympic games since 1932, that’s almost a century. In more recent times they’ve taken the internet world by storm with the successful #SpeedyTuesday on Instagram, celebrating all things Speedmaster.

Their range of timepieces is astonishingly diverse, quite literally ranging from the moon to the depths of the ocean, and everywhere in-between. So how well do you really know Omega? Test your knowledge with this handy beginner’s guide to every Omega model in the current collection.

The Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

The Speedmaster is perhaps the most iconic range of chronographs outside of the Rolex Daytona, placing them in the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts alike. The formula is a simple one: vintage, racing charm combined with high-performance movements. It’s a recipe that has taken them to the moon and back on the wrists of every Apollo astronaut.

At the forefront of the range is the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional but don’t dismiss the Speedmaster 38, Dark Side of the Moon or any of the other variants that add their own unique spin to the watch. Each and every one comes from a long heritage of exceptional timepieces.

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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph 42mm

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph 42mm

The original Moonwatch has been practically untouched since it was launched into the stratosphere of horological iconography in 1969. Omega’s Speedmaster ST 105.012 equipped the Apollo 11 astronauts and has been a part of spacefaring history ever since. The formula has been tweaked over the years with the occasional updated movement like the Calibre 1861 and in 2021 the Calibre 3861. On the whole, the design and feel of the modern Moonwatch is very faithful to the original.

The updated 3861 is Master Chronometer Certified, ensuring that it’s incredibly accurate and magnetic resistant – not to mention it has a 50-hour power reserve, which is very good. There are four versions in the modern collection, a stainless steel version with a choice of hesalite glass or sapphire crystal and two gold versions.

Ref: 310.30.42.50.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 3861, manual-winding chronograph, Master Chronometer Certified, 50h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,370

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Omega Speedmaster 38 Co‑axial Chronometer Chronograph 38mm

Speedmaster 38 Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 38mm

A slightly more refined take on the iconic chronograph is the Speedmaster 38, which takes the heritage design back to a more retro case sizing of 38mm diameter – in comparison with the Moonwatch’s 42mm. It gives the Speedmaster a gentler, more elegant feel that is emphasised by the oval subdials inspired by Omega’s De Ville collection of more artisanal timepieces.

Last year the collection was expanded to include yellow gold and Sedna™ gold variants, boosting the refinement further and giving the sporty chronograph an interesting makeover, although we prefer the quirkier colourways like the blue as they give a less serious tone to the watch. Housed inside is the Calibre 3330 with a great 52-hour power reserve – what’s a Speedmaster without a suitably mighty movement.

Ref: 324.30.38.50.03.001 
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 3330, automatic chronograph, 52h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £4,360

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Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 44.25mm

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 44.25mm

The Speedmaster range known as the Dark Side of the Moon is Omega’s homage to cutting edge materials and as such, are the Speedmasters least caught up in their heritage. The basic version is constructed from a single piece of black zirconium oxide ceramic, a material that is being used more and more in watchmaking.

The most recent addition to the line up is last year’s Alinghi model, a piece made in collaboration with the ALINGHI boat-racing team, who are two-time America’s Cup winners from Switzerland. As befits a racing-spec watch, the dial has been given a carbon-fibre pattern redesign to match the team’s catamaran and includes a tactical timer at 3 o’clock.

Ref: 311.92.44.30.01.002
Case/Dial: Black ceramic with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 1865, manual-winding chronograph, 48h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £9,270

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Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Chronograph 39.7mm

Speedmaster Calibre 321 Chronograph 39.7mm

These days Omega is renowned for the quality of its in-house movements, a reputation that began with the legendary Calibre 321 mid-century. It was this movement that received the go ahead from Nasa and accompanied all manned space missions including Apollo 11.

While the original helped pin Omega’s name firmly to the map, you can still pick up a modern replica created by Omega’s dedicated Calibre 321 workshop. It has all the same specifications down to its manual wind and 55-hour power reserve. The tribute is housed in a heritage-style stainless steel case with retro features such as the dot over the 90 on the bezel.

Ref: 311.30.40.30.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 321, manual-winding chronograph, 55h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £11,950

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Omega Speedmaster Racing Co‑axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44.25mm

Speedmaster Racing Co‑axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44.25mm

Rounding out the Speedmaster collection are a mixture of heritage pieces and unique complications such as moonphases. We’ve chosen to highlight the Racing Chronometer that swaps its celestial aspirations for the tarmac, dedicating itself to the world of motorsport. It changes things up by having an ‘alternating’ minute track that increases its legibility at a glance during highspeed manoeuvres.

Similar to the other Speedmasters, it is available in a range of materials including stainless steel and sedna gold, allowing you to choose if you want to prioritise durability and scratch resistance or throttle back and enjoy life at a cruising pace.

Ref: 329.32.44.51.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 9900, automatic chronograph, Master Chronometer Certified, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £7,230

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Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X‑33 Chronograph 45mm

Speedmaster Skywalker X‑33 Chronograph 45mm

Its name might sound like it’s out of Star Wars but the Speedmaser Skywalker X-33 is anything but science fiction. Created in collaboration with the European Space Agency, it’s Omega’s only anadigi display in the current collection. Anadigi, for those unfamiliar, means it features both a traditional analogue display with hands and a digital, LCD display.

It’s based on the Speedmaster Professional X-33 from 1998 and has a single purpose of space exploration. Afterall, while a vintage chronograph like the Moonwatch is undoubtably stylish and captures the romance of space travel, there are certain practical uses a digital watch is better suited to. Especially with a cutting-edge quartz movement at the helm.

Ref: 318.90.45.79.01.001
Case/Dial:
Titanium with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre Omega 5619, highly precise thermo-compensated multi-functional quartz, 24 month battery life
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £4,540

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The Seamaster

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007

Heading under the water we find Omega’s dedicated diving range that keeps even the likes of a Submariner on its toes. From the Seamaster 300’s vintage charms to the Diver 300m’s modern capabilities there’s every reason to consider picking up a Seamaster over their more expensive rivals.

At a simple level, a diving watch doesn’t need much to excel, a legible dial, a rugged construction and a little bit of nautical or heritage flair. It’s these basics that Omega have mastered to create what might be the most quintessential diving watches around.

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Omega Seamaster 300 Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

Seamaster 300 Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

The Seamaster 300, alongside the first Speedmaster and Railmaster, was part of Omega’s landmark ‘Professional Trilogy’ in 1957 that sought to bring high-end watchmaking into the workplace. Albeit the Seamaster 300 is dedicated to a workplace that consists of a highly pressurised environment under the waves that very few people find themselves consistently working in.

In Omega’s current collection the Seamaster 300 is a heritage model that seeks to emulate the vintage feel of the original timepiece. Although that hasn’t stopped them from using it as a testing ground for their recently announced new alloy called Bronze Gold. The combination of modern technology and vintage style makes for a very attractive watch with slimmer proportions than most of Omega’s contemporary divers.

Ref: 234.92.41.21.10.001
Case/Dial:
Bronze gold with 300m (30 bar) water resistance, brown dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8912, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £9,920

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 42mm

Seamaster Diver 300m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 42mm

If the 300 was Omega’s signature diver 60 years ago, then the Diver 300m is its modern counterpart. It embodies all the features that are synonymous with diving watches: it’s large, legible, has a unidirectional bezel with a dive timer and has heaps of nautical character. The instantly recognisable wave pattern dial is available in numerous colours, but you can’t get more classic than blue to match the ocean. And of course, they’re water resistant to 300m.

The Seamaster Diver 300m collection is also comprised of numerous special editions such as the James Bond and 007 pieces that honour the brand’s partnership with the international man of mystery. The America’s Cup chronograph edition is particularly cool as it adds new functions to the watch without compromising on its signature aesthetics.

Ref: 210.32.42.20.03.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 300m (30 bar) water resistance, blue dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8800, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 55h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £4,170

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Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

The Aqua Terra, as its name suggests, is an amphibious watch that is as at home in the water as on dry land. It forgoes the usual massive bezel and dive timer for a more sedate, unadorned and unmoving metallic ring, placing it at the sportier end of the dress watch spectrum – especially in gold or bi-colour. However, the dial is clearly influenced by the waters, with large, lumed indices and a simple horizontal line pattern reminiscent of the Patek Philippe sport-luxe masterpiece, the Nautilus.

While the water resistance might be lower than the Diver 300m’s, at 150m, the Aqua Terra is still mechanically adept with a choice of three Omega master chronometer movements, the 8900, 8901 or 8800.

Ref: 220.22.41.21.02.001
Case/Dial: Steel – Sedna™ Gold with 150m (15 bar) water resistance, silver dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8900, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £7,320

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 43.5mm

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 43.5mm

If you want to go to the deep-down darkness of the depths, then the Planet Ocean is more up your street. It has a high water resistance rating of 600m – which it must be said is less than half the Rolex Sea Dweller’s 1220m. Although, for the average diver, 600m provides a safety net of about 550m so really, I wouldn’t worry about it.

The Planet Ocean features high-tech materials like ceramic and ceragold to ensure that it’s sturdy enough for the deep while also providing a modern twist on classic diver’s watch aesthetics. It has a much plainer dial than the 300m, without any patterning, that gives it a cool and minimalist feeling. Like Omega’s other divers there are also collaborative versions with additional design features.

Ref: 215.32.44.21.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 600m (60 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8900, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £5,280

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 55mm x 48mm

Seamaster Ploprof 1200m Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 55mm x 48mm

The Planet Ocean isn’t the only Omega built to withstand insane depth, the heritage Seamaster Ploprof from 2016 is water resistant up to 1200m. The Ploprof was first created in 1970 as the Professional 600 and bore the signature features that can be found on its modern reimagining: a bi-directional rotating bezel with a security pusher on its shoulder at 2 o’clock, a helium escape valve and a guarded crown.

Its unique design makes it instantly recognisable and has garnered it a strong following over the years. 2016’s heritage version is the most advanced to date, housing the magnetic resistant master chronometer calibre 8912. It also comes on Omega’s mesh ‘sharkproof’ bracelet.

Ref: 227.90.55.21.01.001
Case/Dial:
Titanium with 1200m (120 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8912, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £9,730

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Omega Seamaster Bullhead Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 43mm

Seamaster Bullhead Co‑Axial Chronometer Chronograph 43mm

Chronograph diving watches are always a little odd because divers require legibility first and foremost, and chronographs can have some of the most cluttered dials of any complication. This makes chronograph divers a novelty, one that is typified by the Seamaster Bullhead, a niche timepiece within the Omega heritage range. The Bullhead is a racing chronograph that feels like it would be more at home as a Speedmaster but finds itself under the Seamaster name.

The Bullhead’s most distinctive feature is its symmetrical, curved trapezium case that is halfway between a rectangle, a cushion case and a triangle. The shape is further emphasised by the positioning of the pushers at the top of the case, along the wider edge – the horns of the bull so to speak.

Ref: 225.12.43.50.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 150m (15 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 3113, automatic chronograph
Strap: Leather
Price: £7,410, limited to 669 pieces

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Omega Seamaster Railmaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 40mm

Seamaster Railmaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 40mm

In an alternative universe where railway watches are less niche, the Railmaster may well have become as iconic and renowned as the Seamaster and Speedmaster, creating its own legacy collection. Afterall, it started life as an equal to its sea and speed counterparts in 1957 as part of the ‘Professional Trilogy”. However, without the same success, the modern recreation has had to deviate from its heritage to become a hybrid Seamaster Railmaster.

The dial pays homage to its vintage origins with cream-coloured lume, a lollypop seconds hand and a railway minute track, all presented on a cool, vertically-brushed dial. The internal mechanics are anything but vintage though with the modern master chronometer calibre 8806.

Ref: 220.12.40.20.01.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 150m (15 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8806, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 55h power reserve
Strap: Coated nylon fabric
Price: £4,170

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The De Ville

Omega De Ville

The Speedmaster and Seamaster show off Omega’s mastery of sporty, professional watches but refined elegance is well within their wheelhouse too. In fact, the De Ville line actually started its life as a subcategory of Seamaster before it was separated into its own collection that focussed on more streamlined designs.

It would be easy to apply the label of ‘ladies watches’ to many of the models in the De Ville collection but in the modern day such arbitrary definitions are being challenged. Style is style no matter who wears it or who the intended customer is.

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Omega De Ville Hour Vision Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

De Ville Hour Vision Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm

The Hour Vision puts its focus on the bare essentials of watchmaking. The dials are simple and beautifully finished with sun-brushing and adorned with raised Roman numerals. The numerals are very unique, with each part of the number created from a metallic baton that wouldn’t look out of place as an hour marker in its own right.

It is on models like the Hour Vision that the finer materials in Omega’s arsenal come into their own, especially Sedna gold, which has a stunning depth of colour. Also, there are some Hour Visions that feature transparent sapphire crystal windows in their case body to allow for a glimpse of the mechanism inside, a pleasing addition.

Ref: 433.53.41.21.13.001
Case/Dial: Sedna™ gold with 100m (10 bar) water resistance, brown dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8901, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £14,305

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Omega De Ville Trésor Master Co‑axial Chronometer 40mm

De Ville Trésor Master Co‑axial Chronometer 40mm Orbis Edition

The Trésor collection is lauded for their thin cases, which are available at a 36mm diameter with a quartz movement or 40mm with a master chronometer mechanical movement. They have very refined hour markers and frequently use Roman numerals, especially at the smaller sizes.

Trésor is also the most recent recipient of an Orbis collaboration – Orbis International is a charity that Omega have a long standing partnership with that seeks to combat preventable blindness. There are ‘Orbis’ variants throughout Omega’s models, all unified by a rich blue dial that is occasionally adorned with a teddy bear motif. The Trésor version has an elegant sun-brushed finish and a diamond-paved bezel.

Ref: 432.18.40.21.03.001
Case/Dial: Stainless steel with 30m (3 bar) water resistance, blue dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8511, manual winding with Co-Axial escapement, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £10,100

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Omega De Ville Prestige Co‑Axial Chronometer 39.5mm

De Ville Prestige Co‑Axial Chronometer 39.5mm

For a down-the-line dress watch, look no further than the Prestige, Omega’s most popular non-sports timepiece. There are styles, customisation options and colours galore, making for a versatile watch that you can match to your preferences and tastes. The range is unified by its sweeping, round case which has a smooth, polished finish and chronometer status calibres.

There are some particularly nice examples within the range such as the steel and blue Prestige power reserve and the steel and red gold bi-colour, but for us the classy black is king. The overall design is subtle enough that it will pair well with any outfit without being overwhelming, that is unless you opt for the £20,000 full gold version.

Ref: 424.10.40.20.01.002
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 30m (3 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 2500, automatic chronometer, Co-Axial escapement, 48h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,060

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Omega De Ville Tourbillon Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 43mm

De Ville Tourbillon Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 43mm

Tourbillons are one of the most spectacular pieces of haute horology that you’ll see fairly frequently from top-end watchmakers, so it’s little surprise that Omega have a couple under their belt. The Master Chronometer Tourbillon is the first ever Omega tourbillon movement to achieve master chronometer certification, making it a landmark mechanism in their history.

The tourbillon is unusually mounted in the centre of the dial with the hour and minute hands appearing to orbit around it – giving it a very sophisticated yet futuristic design that reminds me of an orchestra, with dissonant parts harmonising to create a full symphony. There is also a larger blue version known as the Masterpiece in Blue.

Ref: 529.53.43.22.01.001
Case/Dial:
Sedna™ Gold ‑ Canopus Gold™ with 30m (3 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 2640, manual-winding central tourbillon, 3 days power reserve indicator, magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, 72h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £151,410

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Omega De Ville Ladymatic Co‑Axial Chronometer 34mm

De Ville Ladymatic Co‑Axial Chronometer 34mm

While anyone can wear any watch, the Ladymatic simply oozes feminine style that makes it clear who the intend wearer is – if the name didn’t already make that clear. The dainty 34mm diameter case, available in a variety of materials, is made even daintier by its super thin, lugless connection to the bracelet.

Even the simplest full steel version features diamond hour markers, white gold hands and a mother-of-pearl dial for incredible refinement. However, that doesn’t mean Omega haven’t gone to town on its construction, giving it a 100m water resistance, which is far deeper than you’d ever want to take this elegant piece of wristcandy.

Ref: 425.62.34.20.55.003
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 150m (15 bar) water resistance, black dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8806, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 55h power reserve
Strap: Coated nylon fabric
Price: £15,660

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The Constellation

Omega Constellation

Omega might be associated with the moon, but that doesn’t mean their aspirations don’t go further beyond, the constellation collections representing the height of their mechanical and material developments. One way to think about them is that these watches take the high performance sports elements from Omega’s other watches and transpose them into more style-focused timepieces.

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Omega Constellation Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39mm

Constellation Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39mm

The Constellation collection stands out for its signature features: four claws, half-moon facets, Roman numerals and single gold star. They are available in 41mm, 39mm and 36mm diameter case dimensions with optional gemstones. Just as there are a range of external options, there a couple of different calibres that can be found in the collection, all of them master chronometer certified and at the higher end of Omega’s capabilities.

However, it’s the wide variety of dials that are really attractive. Sun-brushed blues and stippled patterns that are vaguely reminiscent of meteorite dials – further emphasising the cosmic concept behind the star emblazoned collection.

Ref: 131.13.39.20.06.001
Case/Dial:
Stainless steel with 50m (5 bar) water resistance, grey dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8800, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, 55h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £5,000

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Omega Globemaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39mm

Globemaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39mm

When it comes to distinctive dials, the Globemaster pays homage to the 1952 Constellation’s iconic pie-pan. Surrounding the dial is a fluted bezel, which is cool and just about distinctive enough not to draw comparisons to Rolex’s own signature flutes. Of course, the Globemaster wouldn’t be an Omega without numerous case material and dial colour options, from stainless steel to sedna gold.

What makes the Globemaster special is that it was the first timepiece Omega created to achieve master chronometer status, which if you’ve read this entire article, you’ll know is par for the course now. In celebration of the achievement, the caseback bears the engraving of an observatory with eight symbolic stars.

Ref: 130.53.39.21.02.002
Case/Dial:
Yellow gold with 100m (10 bar) water resistance, silver dial
Movement: Calibre Omega 8901, automatic with Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer Certified, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, 60h power reserve
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: £18,350

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Junior Content Producer for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. While a relative newcomer to the magazine, he's nonetheless a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better.

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