As the creators behind one of the original “Dirty Dozen” military watches commissioned by the M.O.D in WWII, Vertex has a well established history in the arena of field watches. That military heritage is something the modern brand, re established in 2016, is keen to celebrate, which they’ve done by starting a two month residency at Chelsea Barracks. Alongside the residency they have launched a new version of the MP45 with a vintage inspired dial, the limited edition MP45 Heritage Edition.
At the core of the new edition is the monopusher design that’s been around since 2019. It has an asymmetrical brushed steel case with a raised lip along the right side protecting the crown and pusher. The 40mm diameter is a nod towards slimmer heritage watches but still feels modern in terms of how it wears.
It’s the dial which features the main difference to the standard version. Instead of a stark black and white display it has the appearance of a well worn vintage piece. Warm, off white moulded Arabic numerals give it an aged effect, as does the matured dial (what matured means, we’re not entirely sure, at a certain point matte black is just matte black). It’s a great look for the bicompax chronograph, with subdials including a small seconds function and a 30 minute timer.
Housed inside is the Sellita SW510 MP, a Swiss monopusher chronograph calibre with a 48 hour power reserve. Across the 50 pieces that make up the limited edition, there are actually two versions of the movement on offer, 25 with automatic winding, 25 manual. There’s not too much difference between the versions so it comes down to whether you want the vintage experience to go with the vintage appearance. Vertex have used this calibre in both its forms previously so nothing too special here.
As for the Chelsea Barracks residency, the entire range of Vertex watches will be on display in the setting of the buildings constructed in 1862 to house two battalions of the British Army. If you are in the area there are plenty of reasons to visit.
The final thing to add is the MP45 Heritage Edition comes on a vintage leather strap and costs £3,480. With only 50 pieces available you’ll have to act quick, and even quicker if you have a particular version in mind.
Price & Specs:
Model: Vertex MP45 Heritage Edition
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter, stainless steel case, aged black dial
Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita SW510 MP, manual winding or automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 48h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, small seconds at 9 o’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock
Strap: Vintage brown leather, with additional black rubber and NATO strap
Price/availability: £3,480, both automatic and manual winding versions limited to 25 pieces each
More details at Vertex.