It’s the 30th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection, which first debuted in 1996 as a successor to the integrated bracelet design of the legendary 222. The 222 has since been revived itself but thanks to their different aesthetics, the Overseas remains a core part of Vacheron’s product range. To celebrate the anniversary, Vacheron Constantin are launching the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in a new combination of white gold with an azure dial as a 200 piece limited edition.
Starting with the case, it measures 41.5mm x 8.1mm living up to its ‘Ultra-Thin’ moniker – especially impressive for an automatic perpetual calendar as both those features can add bulk to a watch due to the way the rotor and various calendar functions are structured within the movement. Yet here, the white gold case remains nice and slim, riding the line between the bold integrated bracelet design and the fact that if we’re being honest, it will only ever be worn as a dress watch.
Paired with the white gold of the case, the dial is presented in azure blue. It’s based on the original azure blue that was used in the 2016 Overseas collection revamp, tying the 30th anniversary model back to one of the important updates in the collection’s history. It’s a very attractive and soft light blue colour that shifts slightly under the lighting and depending on the finishing. The sunray brushed main dial disk appears a little lighter compared to the snailed subdials for the months, days and date subdials, as well as the moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock.
There are also a couple of sky blue accents across the dial to emphasise the new colour combination even further. The peripheral 60-minute scale is sky blue and so is the leap year indicator that’s integrated into the months disk at 12 o’clock, which actually shows a complete four year cycle.
Powering the perpetual calendar display is the calibre 1120 QP/1 with 40-hour power reserve. With a power reserve that low, this is a timepiece where it is genuinely worth investing in a winder if you don’t want to be constantly resetting the calendar display. A lot of the appeal of a perpetual calendar is that you don’t need to reset it for up to a century, so long as it’s kept wound, because it can account for months with 28, 29 (on leap years only), 30 or 31 days. A quirk of the Gregorian calendar means that centenary years are only leap years if they’re divisible by 400, so while 2100 should be a leap year by normal standards, it won’t be.
Rounding out the watch are three strap options. There’s a full white gold bracelet if you prefer the full metal look, a white rubber strap if you want to lean into the theoretically sportiness of the Overseas and lastly a rubber strap in denim blue to tie in with the dial. My personal preference would be to keep it on the bracelet but the combination with the blue rubber strap does work as well.
It’s limited to 200 pieces and is price on request. It’s not the flashiest anniversary launch in the world – a classic complication in a new combination of case material and dial colour – but that’s the point. The Overseas has been around for three decades now and if Vacheron Constantin continue to release watches like this, that get the basics right, it will be around for a lot longer too.
Price and Specs:
More details at Vacheron Constantin.
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