When you think of Italian style, you might be drawn to the splendour of Milanese tailoring and art from Florence. However, you should never forget that Italy is itself a country full of mountains and tricky terrain, resulting in it having a world beating outerwear and tool watch industry. One such cool and robust watchmaker is Unimatic (you were probably expecting us to say Panerai but they can’t have all the fun), who have launched a trio of new watches that pay tribute to the Italian military, the Esercito Italiano Collection.
Unimatic x Esercito Modello Quattro Ref. U4-TA
First up is the new Ref. U4-TA, which is based on the Modello Quattro Classic. It has a 40mm diameter, sandblasted stainless steel case and it’s built like a tank. An apt comparison because it’s as rugged as it looks with 300m water resistance. The chunky bezel gives it an uncompromising profile that lives up to its adventurous aspirations.
As part of the Esercito Italiano Collection (Italian Army), U4-TA has a new military inspired dial. There’s a new khaki/drab colouration which Unimatic describe as foliage green, evoking images of high altitude Italian scrubland on the slopes of a mountain. It’s also inscribed with the phrase “Truppe Alpine” in reference to the Comando Truppe Alpine, one of the oldest mountain infantry corps still active in the world. Additionally, it comes on a new TPU two piece strap in the same foliage green.
Inside the durable case and protected by the solid steel caseback that bears a Unimatic x Esercito engraving is the Seiko NH35A calibre. It’s an automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and high levels of anti-magnetic resistance. It might not be the finest piece of horology going but it’s pretty common, making it easy to repair, so you shouldn’t have to worry about taking it on vigorous excursions.
The U4-TA is a limited edition of 200 pieces priced at £550. At that level of accessibility, don’t expect it to hang around for too long before they’re all snapped up.
Unimatic x Esercito Modello Uno Ref. U1-PAN / U1-PA
Rounding out the trio of watches that make up the Esercito Italiano Collection are the Ref. U1-PAN and Ref. U1-PA, both are based on the Modello Uno. The only difference between them is that the U1-PAN has a black DLC coating on its stainless steel case while the U1-PA lets the steel shine. Like the U4-TA, the cases are 40mm in diameter with 300m water resistance.
The military inspiration for this pair is found on the dial and the updated bezel. Regarding the dial, alongside the signature “Unimatic Made in Italy” inscription they also feature the logo of the Paracadutisti, Italian infantry corps paratroopers. The logo consists of a pair of wings either side of the Esercito star, suspended by a parachute.
As for the bezels, this is the first time the Modello Uno has featured compass bezels, allowing you to calculate your position more accurately and the direction you should be travelling. It’s everyone’s favourite piece of watch trivia that if you point the hour hand at the sun, with the watch horizontal, the halfway point between the hour hand and 12 o’clock is approximately south. And with a compass bezel, you can use this fact to take a more precise bearing, at least in the northern hemisphere.
![Unimatic Modello Uno ref.U1-PA](/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Unimatic-Modello-Uno-ref.U1-PA.jpg")
Lastly, both the Ref. U1-PAN and Ref. U1-PA come on new camouflage pattern jacquard NATO straps. Each strap will have a uniquely woven pattern. The U1-PAN is limited to 150 pieces at £750 while the U1-PA is limited to 300 models at £650. So, on the whole, the Esercito Italiano Collection is very accessible and while each model is pretty limited there’s decent availability across the trio.
Price & Specs:
Model: Unimatic Esercito Italiano Collection
Reference: U4-TA (matte green dial), U1-PA (matte black dial) U1-PAN (matte black dial, black DLC brushed finish)
Case/dial: 40mm diameter, stainless steel case, matte black or foliage green dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Seiko NH35A calibre, automatic or manual-winding, 24 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 41h
Functions: Hours, minutes, hacking seconds
Strap: Foliage green TPU two piece strap (matte green dial), camouflage jacquard nylon NATO strap with additional black heavy-duty, Unimatic nylon NATO strap (matte black versions)
Price/availability: £550, limited to 200 pieces (matte green dial), £650, limited to 300 pieces (matte black dial), £750, limited to 150 pieces (matte black dial, black DLC brushed finish)
More details at Unimatic.
