In 2001 Ulysse Nardin introduced the revolutionary Freak wristwatch with its distinctive crownless time setting and rotating movement. For the 25th anniversary of the collection, they have launched a duo of new Metiers d’Art references called the Freak [One Blue Enamel] and Freak [One Guilloché]. They bring a touch of elegance and intricate artistic detail to the iconoclastic timepiece.
Both watches use the Freak [One] as their base, a watch that debuted in 2023 to be the modernised take on the original Freak. It has the signature crownless design with a rotating bezel (featuring an updated design that reduces the number of superfluous details compared to the original) to set the time and a rotating caseback for winding. The case itself measures 44mm x 13.3mm in titanium for lightweight comfort while being strong and robust.
Where the Freak [One Blue Enamel] and Freak [One Guilloché] come into their own though are the displays. The centre of the display is occupied by the rotating movement, which serves as the watch’s minute indicator. Beneath that is a rotating hour disk and it’s these hour disks that feature the titular Metiers d’Art finishes of each model.
Starting with the Freak [One Blue Enamel], the disk has a white gold base that’s given a sunray style engraving before having a Grand Feu enamel layer applied on top. Grand Feu is produced by firing the dial at intense temperatures in a kiln, creating rich and intense colours as well as a smooth finish, but with a high risk of failure due to the dial cracking. It’s produced by Ulysse Nardin’s in-house enamel studio Donzé Cadrans and they’ve used an electric blue colour that’s reminiscent of the original 2001 Freak.
Second is the Freak [One Guilloché] with a geometric, diamond pattern in a light sand colour. There are multiple ways to produce guilloché by modern standards such as machine engraving, but the most prestigious and traditional method is authentic hand engraving using a rose engine. However, handmade guilloché is extremely time consuming and expensive due to the limited number of artisans in the world capable of producing it. As such, Ulysse Nardin has found a middle ground to balance the character of a handmade dial with larger production numbers of 99 pieces. They commissioned one handmade master dial which they then replicated for the rest of the displays using a stamping process.
Powering the distinctive Freak display is the calibre UN-240 automatic with 90-hour power reserve. It makes use of all of Ulysse Nardin’s quality of life innovations such as DIAMonSIL and a Grinder winding system to reduce friction and protect the movement. Given that this movement undergoes more stress than your average beater due to the fact it rotates, all such improvements are vital.
Both the enamel and guilloché variants are limited editions of 99 pieces and also share a price of £67,760 including VAT. That’s £5,000 more than the standard UN Freak [One] at £62,790, which feels like an appropriate increase for a Metiers d’Art limited edition. Although at this level of money, you’re probably just buying whichever one you like best regardless of the price.
Price and Specs:
More details at Ulysse Nardin.
