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The European Championship of Watches – Part 2: Round of 16

The European Championship of Watches Part 2 Round of 16

In part one of our fictional ‘European Championship of Watches’ we had a look at the competitors who made it through the group stages and now they’re ready to take to the pitch for the knock-outs. Looking at the draw there are some great matches ahead of us, Switzerland vs Austria looks to be a highlight – can the Swiss giants of Rolex live up to expectations? And at the other end of the spectrum, England’s Vertex could be in for an early exit if they let Yema past their defences for the French… but what’s new about that.

Italy (Unimatic U2 F) vs Russia (Vostok Nuclear Submarine)

Unimatic U2 F VS Vostok Nuclear Submarine

Militaristic in two very different ways, it’s field watch vs diver as the Unimatic U2 F goes up against the Vostok Nuclear Submarine. Despite the vastly different looks from the teams, their playstyle is very similar with both timepieces housing Seiko movements, the NH35A automatic for Italy and the VK61 meca-quartz for Russia. Despite the similarities, the automatic calibre’s superiority over its meca-quartz rival puts the ball in the back of the Russian net.

While the gap in technical skills is closer than the Italians would like, their style makes a mockery of the Vostok with stripped-back limited editions winning out against overcompensating mass production every time.

Winner: Italy

Netherlands (Grönefeld 1941 Principia) vs Sweden (GoS Norrsken)

Grönefeld 1941 Principia vs GoS Norrsken

As the next competitors make their way onto the pitch it gives us a chance to look at their kit: Netherlands’ Grönefeld 1941 Principia has swapped out the traditional Dutch orange for a lovely salmon dial made from sterling silver and at the other end Sweden’s GoS Norrsken has a funky green wave pattern guilloché that is certainly eye catching.

Despite the promise of the Swedish piece, the Dutch are on form – coming off the back of a recent GPHG win – and with Damascus steel knives not being allowed on the playing field, the Grönefeld brothers are one step closer to adding another prize to their awards cabinet.

Winner: Netherlands

Scotland (anOrdain Model 1) vs Slovakia (Molnar Fabry Molnar Majestic Tourbillon)

anOrdain Model 1 vs Molnar Fabry Molnar Majestic Tourbillon

The match between Molnar Fabry and anOrdain started before they reached the playing field with lots of big talk from both teams. The Scots talked-up their enamel fumé dial and the Slovakians retorted with a taunt about their exquisite skeleton dial. However, it was all bluster as on the pitch both teams fail to make much of an impact on each other – both workhorse Swiss movements unable to find purchase in the game.

After a slow second half Scotland set up an opportunity at the last moment and their finishing snags them the win. While the Slovakians put on a fair showing, it’s anOrdain that make the more lasting impression.

Winner: Scotland

England (Vertex MP45) vs France (Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale)

Vertex MP45 vs Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale

Ah the age-old rivalry and this time it’s gone military. The Vertex MP45 Arctic manages to score an early goal thanks to having a clear and understandable plan, with its bold chronograph layout easy to read. Unfortunately, the French Yema Navygraf learn to read the English side all too fast and begin exploiting some gaps in their defence, scoring a quick hat-trick in retaliation. Yema’s in-house calibre Yema3000 is just too much for England’s imported Sellita movement and the promising start turns into a bloodbath.

And while we’re supposed to remain impartial it’s painful to watch the English side dismantled in this way. At the end of the day Yema’s been watchmaking up a storm that Vertex’s scant release slate can’t match.

Winner: France

Switzerland (Rolex Explorer Bi-Colour) vs Austria (Carl Suchy & Söhne WALTZ N°1)

Rolex Explorer Bi-Colour vs Carl Suchy & Söhne WALTZ N°1

It’s David vs Goliath as the plucky underdog, Austria’s Carl Suchy & Söhne WALTZ N°1, faces off against the revamped Swiss team fielding the new Rolex Explorer 36mm bi-colour, making for one of the most anticipated matches of knock-outs. Among the fans, the Swiss is the clear favourite but bookies aren’t so sure – put off by how new and untested the updated Explorer is. Their doubt is understandable as the Austrian’s guilloché dial and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement has dominated lower leagues.

However, a bit of Mozart in the locker room can’t stand up to the indomitable watchmaking might that is Rolex. An unlucky pairing for the Austrians.

Winner: Switzerland

Belgium (Ressence Type 2N) vs Denmark (Nordgreen Philosopher)

Ressence Type 2N vs Nordgreen Philosopher

Belgium and the Ressence Type 2 N take on Denmark’s Nordgreen Philosopher in our next fixture. Ressence are a promising up and comer in the arena of independent watchmaking and that stint of good form stands them in good stead against the wildcard Danish side. The tactics between the sides are wildly different with Ressence using the latest e-Crown technology to run rings around the Philosopher’s quartz movement.

Both are cool-looking watches but Ressence took the lead early and held on to it, their movement and innovation was too good and the Danish couldn’t keep up, meaning Belgium were always going to win.

Winner: Belgium

Germany (A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar) vs Portugal (Meia Lua Callisto Halfmoon Semi-Red)

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar vs Meia Lua Callisto Halfmoon Semi Red

In what might be the greatest disparity of skill level in the tournament so far, A. Lange & Söhne representing Germany face off against Meia Lua from Portugal. To everyone’s surprise, the Callisto Halfmoon Semi-Red stands toe-to-toe with the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar for the first half with their interesting colours and stylish chronograph display giving the German side more trouble than expected. However, following half-time the Lange 1 stretches its L021.3 movement, the 67th in-house calibre from the brand and storm over the Portuguese’s Japanese Miyota 9122 import as if it wasn’t there.

They might have been clinically disassembled by meticulous German prestige but Meia Lua have earned themselves a solid reputation and might get a bit more noticed now.

Winner: Germany

Spain (Pita Barcelona Molinos Orbital ‘Classic Edition’ Display) vs Croatia (Marnaut Seascape 200R)

Pita Barcelona Molinos Orbital Classic Edition Display vs Marnaut Seascape 200R

With neither brand particularly well-known, the crowd are taking the final game of knock-outs as a show-match and both teams are eager to give them what they want. Spain’s Pita Barcelona Molinos Orbital ‘Classic Edition’ display plenty of fancy ball control with its orbital gear display. Not to be outdone, Croatia’s Marnaut Seascape 200R shows off its sea urchin inspired dial. However, ball skills eventually result in a couple of goals for Spain and they ultimately take the match.

It was an entertaining game but the extraordinary design of the Molinos Orbital was fractionally better than the Seascapes’ seascape and it outclassed the Croatians in the movement department too.

Winner: Spain

That completes the knock-out stages of the Euros of Watchmaking with Italy, Netherlands, France, Scotland, Switzerland, Belgium, Germany and Spain moving on to the quarters, which we’ll cover on July 2nd.

For now though, it’s time to say goodbye to those watches that haven’t quite made the cut. They did well to make it to knock-outs and none of them should be disappointed with their results.

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About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.