In case you don’t follow the Chinese calendar, the 25th of January is Chinese New Year and this year we smell a rat. We don’t just mean because of the infestation in our offices – we’ve grown to love the endless squeaking – but because onceagain many a watchmaker is tipping their horological hat to the animal of the year.
So if you were born under the sign of the rat – or just fancy a dose of the intelligence and vitality the rodent represents – look no further than this handful of watchmakers that have… ahem… gotten their rats out.
Jaquet Droz Petit Heure Minute, from £26,000
Not content to show off just one version of the Rat, Jaquet Droz has used their Petit Heure Minute timepiece in every way, creating four new Zodiac references. Well, it’s more like two pairs. The first pair is available in 35mm and 39mm and feature the watchmaker’s signature grand feu enamelling depicting a pair of rats munching on pomegranates. Both have rose gold cases, with the smaller version completely set with diamonds, and both feature rat-engraved rotors on the back.
The other pair takes a more three-dimensional approach to the theme, with a single gold rat in relief again enjoying a ruby-set pomegranate. The dial is a mix of painting and engraving set on onyx. It’s stunning and is available in a 41mm rose gold or white gold case. All four models are equipped with an in-house automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve and limited to 28 pieces.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac Year of the Rat
In a similar vein to Jaquet Droz, Vacheron Constantin has combined both engraving and enamelling into a pair of stunning be-whiskered watches. Available in platinum with an unusual blue dial or rose gold with a warm brown dial, both feature the titular creature front and centre, applied in relief.
To leave as much space for the central motif as possible, both watches are powered by the Calibre 2460 G4 with indications in apertures at the edge of the dial: hours and minutes are at 10.30 and 1.30 respectively and the day and date are at 7.30 and 5.30. Only 12 of each will be released, but given the implied price of each – we’ve yet to receive an exact number – that seems about right.
Panerai Luminor Sealand Year of the Rat
Not to be outdone on the metiers d’art front, Panerai has resorted to the lesser-known craft of Sparsello, an Italian technique that involves small incisions made with a scalpel that are then filled with gold and hammered flat. It’s a far more ornate take on the Luminor than we’re used to, but at least the 44mm steel case gives plenty of room for the intricate detailing and impossibly charming animal.
Limited to 88 pieces, the Rat edition is equipped with Panerai’s flagship P. 9010 calibre automatic movement, complete with a 3-day power reserve.
Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Year of the Rat
Unlike most of the new ratty releases, Blancpain’s latest is more a technical accomplishment than an engraved rodent can account for. Based on the maison’s phenomenal Chinese Calendar complication, it’s essentially a zodiac-slanted perpetual calendar, with Chinese characters for every non-time indication and the Gregorian date around the circumference of the dial. It’s all set onto a minimal white enamel, stepping away from the rich colours most associate with Chinese New Year.
In fact, the only direct allusion to the Year of the Rat is on the reverse, where the animal has been engraved into the rotor of the 3638, winding it to a full power reserve of 7 days.
Chopard L.U.C. XP Urushi Year of the Rat
Sure it may be a mixing of Asian cultures, but Chopard have outdone themselves in the latest of their annual Chinese Zodiac watches, which relies on the ancient Japanese art of Urushi lacquer. The technique involves mixing natural varnish with gold flecks and hand-painting it onto the dial. The result is breath-taking and here gives an uncanny sheen to the rat’s coat. The rodent himself is evidently in a happy place, sitting atop a prize corn and a khaki fruit. No, it’s not a tomato.
Behind the scene, the watch is powered by Chopard’s in-house 96.17 calibre automatic movement, an ultra-thin number with a 65-hour power reserve, making it slimmer than most ornate Zodiac watches.
