With a name like Air 1 I half-jokingly thought that Tag Heuer’s new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph might have a connection to Nike kicks or even the Presidential plane. However, the name is actually a reference to the watch’s brand-new architecture featuring an open-worked, hollowed out case. It introduces a new production technique for the brand, additive manufacturing.
If you’ve read our articles on British microbrand Apiar or the future of watch manufacturing then you’ll already be aware that ‘additive manufacturing’ is industry lingo for 3D printing. Specifically, it’s a process by which a watch case is built up layer by layer of metal according to a computer program. Tag Heuer have employed a specific technique known as Selective Laser Melting (SLM), which uses a high-powered laser to melt and fuse layers of metallic powder to build a solid object.
What that allows designers to do is create shapes and internal case structures that would be otherwise impossible to fabricate, such as hollow sections that can’t be machined in traditional ways. It allows for intricacies that are produced with the utmost precision despite their apparent complexity. In the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 that reveals itself through the honeycombed lattice structure inside the openworked portions of the case. Designed to look like a high-tech object sculpted in a wind tunnel, such as an F1 car’s complex shape.
The case itself it measures 41mm in diameter and is made from a combination of Grade 5 titanium and rose gold. The bezel is also DLC coated to create a dramatic black, grey and gold tri-colour scheme for the piece. Thanks to its hollow structure it weighs just 85g despite the gold elements – one of the heavier watchmaking materials. The overall styling is busy and high-tech in that intentionally modern/futuristic way that Tag has frequently used for the Monaco Split-Seconds.
That aesthetic is true also of the dial, which is partially openworked too. It has the classic tricompax chronograph display with small seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute counters. As a split-seconds chronograph there are two central hands stacked on top of one another that can be started together and stopped independently. There’s a reason it’s the most prestigious chronograph complication.
Powering the display is the Tag Heuer TH81-00, a hi-beat 5Hz frequency calibre with 68-hour power reserve. It’s produced in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. While we’re dwelling on movement partnerships, LVMH, who own Tag Heuer, recently became a minority stakeholder in La Joux-Perret who have worked with Tag previously on movements for the Aquaracer and Formula 1 collections.
The Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 is priced at CHF 150,000 (approx. £143,400), it’s also a limited edition of 30 pieces. As a watchmaking exercise I think it’s an interesting watch for showcasing Tag Heuer’s adoption of additive manufacturing. But I also think that in order to show off those techniques to the fullest extent, they’ve pushed the boat a bit too far in terms of how busy and over the top the design is.
Price and Specs:
More details at Tag Heuer.
As always with this brand, the end product is OTT and not very attractive, which is basically what Michael alluded to. Yes, very technically high end with the layered and fused construction. As always with an open frame construction, difficult to read.
Price, do I need to say anything here, also OTT.