3D-printing might have seemed like a fad to some, but instead it has been adopted on a large scale by the watch business. Today, manufacturers use it for fast prototyping of new watch case designs and sizing, usually rendered in sterile-coloured plastics. In part that’s because early 3D printing materials were limited to basic photopolymers and thermoplastics. These materials were brittle and lacked the desired mechanical properties for a complex structure like a watch, which may have contributed to the process not being explored at scale by the luxury industry. But things have changed, leading to the question, are 3D-printed watches the future?
Today, more advanced materials from 3D printers offer strength and sustainability, with cutting edge development exploring composites, ceramics, bioplastics and metal in powder form. With the ever-evolving material diversity comes the possibility of creating complex and functional parts. Using 3D printing gives the maker the possibility of creating a whole other universe of skeletonised and organic case shapes that are not possible through CNC machining. However, in real terms, and for scaling purposes, 3D-printing remains limited to prototypes.
Though that hasn’t stopped a couple of pioneering brands successfully embracing metal 3D-printing to create watch brands, such as the young UK-based brand Apiar. But the first independent brand to embrace case making using 3D-printed steel (later making the world’s first 3D-printed watch case in 18K gold) was Holthinrichs watches. The Dutch brand, founded in 2016 by the formally trained architect Michiel Holthinrichs, has set the standards.
Holthinrichs’ approach is based on combining advanced metal printing techniques with high-end artisanal hand-finishing. This philosophy neatly encapsulates one of the drawbacks of this manufacturing process. When using metal 3D-printing, the cases emerge with a distinctive, rough finish not associated with luxury wristwear, but Holthinrichs have used this to their advantage.
Thor’s bespoke Holthinrichs Ornament 1
They juxtapose the rough texture left by the manufacturing process with many hours of hand-finishing across the exterior parts of the case. What you are left with is a distinctive design philosophy, visible in the brand’s first model, the Ornament 1, featuring a skeletonised case and intricate Art Deco dial. Fast forward to 2024 and the brand launched the Signature Ornament and Ornament Nouveau collections, showcasing three-dimensional sweeping case shapes with manufacture movement.
Apiar’s Gen1.0
Apiar’s Gen1.0 has a similar use of 3D-printed metal (which they describe with the term additive manufacturing) to enable a different approach to case making, as co-founder Matt Oosthuizen explains: ”We’ve seen what’s possible – and what’s possible is simply incredible. We wanted the Gen1.0 to pioneer a truly unique approach to watchmaking, showing there are no limits to what we can create, especially when we’re a long way from home! We think the Gen 1.0 goes beyond just looking incredible. It’s a watch that future explorers can build in their lunar labs, from metallic powder, with almost zero waste. And it’s properly versatile, robust, light, and would look just as great on a video link with Mission Control as it would while you’re dangling from a cable on a spacewalk.”
Launched on the 15th August, the Gen1.0, exhibits a similar airy, skeletonised structure to the Holthinrichs watches, with a more futuristic touch; their cases almost appear woven by some giant spider, with a similar approach to their titanium dials. The textured finish of the super-light Grade 23 titanium is offset by a polished, bevelled bezel that frames the spider-web-like dial. The dial itself is an integral part of the 3D printed grade 5 titanium mid case. The outside of this is CNC-machined, offering a clean circular contrast that only accents the alien architecture of the cradling case back. Debuting at £1,875 + VAT with more than 75% of its components made in Britain, the Gen1.0 is a compelling argument for embracing 3D-printing.
The Printable Watch V2
There are also tempting DIY alternatives out there if you’re bold enough or have a mate with a large 3D printer and want to get into this as a hobby. TPW, short for The Printable Watch, offers downloadable files for a plastic-based diver-style watch bodies compatible with Seiko NH35 or Miyota movements. The case size is 41mm with an option of 20 or 22mm lug widths, and is a tempting entry into the future game for only £2.99. Yes, that is less than 3 pounds, and you’ll easily source the parts you need on the internet, so get printing!
In answer to the question that I set out in the introduction, is 3D-printing the future of watchmaking? Quite possibly! Imagine a world where you can rock up to a boutique, choose a watch from a catalogue and sit back with a coffee while an on-site machine prints your watch for you. Of course, we’re still a ways off that due to the necessity of human assembly and finishing, but there will probably be a robot for that as well. For the time being, just enjoy the never before seen case shapes and dynamism of brands like Apiar and Holthinrichs.
More details at Holthinrichs and Apiar.
We’re just at the starting point when it comes to additive watch making, I think there are going to be some exciting breakthroughs in years to come. Thank you very much for the mention!