Seiko Launch King Seiko 110th Anniversary Edition and 39mm Series

There were lots of wristwatch highlights in 2022, but one of my personal favourites was the re-launch of the King Seiko as part of Seiko’s permanent collections. The angular case, the svelte dimensions the elegant dial, a recipe for success if ever there was one. For 2023 Seiko are introducing four new versions, one in celebration of Seiko’s 110^th anniversary and three at a new 39mm case sizing.

King Seiko 110^th Anniversary

While the King Seiko was reintroduced just over a year ago, it’s already had its fair share of exciting updates in the form of new dials. The deep red and pale violet editions stand out in my memory. For the 110^th anniversary of Seiko, the King Seiko SPB365 also features a new dial, but instead of just another new colourway, it’s been totally reimagined with an intricate pattern.

The pattern is called Kikkoumon and is based on the natural shapes of a tortoise shell, consisting of geometrically arranged hexagons. Each hexagon is actually made of three hexagons recessed into each other, creating a multi-layered texture that catches the light in an intriguing manner. The choice to use Kikkoumon has more significance than simple aesthetics though, as it bears specific cultural significance to a region of Tokyo called Kameido, once known as “Turtle Island”, which is relevant because Kameido is the historic site of the original King Seiko workshop.

Other than the new dial, the King Seiko 110^th Anniversary Edition is more or less identical to the modern King Seikos that have been released over the last 12 months. A 37m case in steel housing the calibre 6R31 with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 2,500 pieces at a price of £1,600.

King Seiko 39mm Series

While the fact that the King Seiko collection has vintage 37mm proportions is one of its strong points, I don’t dislike that they’ve introduced three new models at a larger 39mm sizing. By increasing the size, it allows Seiko to apply more details and increase the overall level of finishing. For example, the hour markers now have an additional facet to them and there’s enough surface area on the lugs and bezel to apply alternating finishes to the top and sides – hairline brushing on top, mirror polishing on the flanks. Crucially, the overall shape and style that’s so emblematic of the King Seiko has been maintained.

The three versions being introduced each have a differently coloured dial: white, blue and green. Both the blue and green versions have classic sunray brushed finishing akin to the other King Seiko watches, just in richer, more vibrant colours. The white version though is the most special as it has a linen pattern dial, featuring subtle hairline brushing in both vertical and horizontal directions. Give it a few years and it will likely deserve a spot in our Best Vintage Linen Dial Watches article.

In addition to the minor aesthetic tweaks and the new dials, what an increased case size allows for is a larger movement. The King Seiko 39mm series contains the Calibre 6R55, which has an improved 72-hour power reserve. Although the difference between a 70-hour and 72-hour reserve is a lot less significant than the difference between a 38-hour and 40/42-hour power reserve. It also introduces a date complication into the mix, positioned at 3 o’clock.

The King Seiko 39mm is priced at £1,700, which does make it the most expensive non-limited version in the range. However, I think that’s justified given the extra level of detail present across the entire watch. Plus, the linen dial version could be almost double that and I’d still be on the way to the new Seiko boutique on Bond Street to pick one up.