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Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ Limited Edition Watch Review

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

Where the King Seiko 145th Anniversary edition pays tribute to the partnership between Seiko’s founder Kintaro Hattori and the influential engineer Tsuruhiko Yoshikawa, the Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ pays homage to the Timekeeper. The Timekeeper was the first pocket watch produced by Seikosha (before it was renamed Seiko) in 1895. The original features a classical design with distinctive knurled case and a clean, legible display, which are elements that have been carried forward to the tribute wristwatch.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

Starting with the case, its measures a petite 35mm giving it a vintage feel despite the fact that the original was a broad 54.9mm due to being a pocket watch. The wristwatch is made from steel with a gold coloured coating to give it a more luxurious appearance. As I briefly mentioned already, the original pocket watch has a distinctive, double knurled design with knurled edges along the perimeter of both the bezel and the case itself (I hesitate to call it coin-edge because the individual knobs are more rounded than a traditional coin-edge fluting). Due to the wristwatch’s slim dimensions they’ve opted for a single ring of knurling around the bezel while maintaining the original style.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

Similarly, they’ve maintained the original style of the crown with an onion design, though it’s in the usual wristwatch position at 3 o’clock rather than up at 12 as with a pocket watch. Obviously with this change, the original 12 o’clock loop for attaching a pocket watch to a chain is unnecessary but Seiko have found a way to still incorporate the shape language of the loop into the watch’s design.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

Instead of fixed lugs, the Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ Limited Edition has moveable loops with a pull-through leather strap, which means when the watch is not affixed to its strap, it does indeed have a loop at 12 (and 6) o’clock. The strap itself sits comfortably on the wrist with its cuff design. It’s not quite so thick as a bund strap, meaning it still feels comparatively elegant and dressy, but it definitely adds a whole lot of additional chunkiness to the design that helps the watch have a lot of presence despite its size. Making it a genuinely unisex prospect even at sub-36mm.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

For the dial, it’s a pared back take on the original pocket watch. It still has dramatic Roman numeral hour markers and a stark black and white enamel display, but the small seconds subdial and additional 60-minute scale are gone. The central hands have also been redesigned with a cleaner style, they’re now spear/spade shaped rather than the elaborate, open-worked originals.

Powering the Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ Limited Edition is the 6R51 automatic with 72-hour power reserve. It’s the no date version of the more common 6R55, having made its debut in 2024’s Studio Ghibli edition. So while Seiko is celebrating its 145 year anniversary, the 6R51 has hit the landmark of two years.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel Timekeeper SPB538

It’s priced at £1,700, which is practically the same as the King Seiko 6R ‘Preppy’ collection at £1,720 that also uses the 6R51 movement. In terms of prestige, I think I would put a Seiko anniversary limited edition of 1,450 pieces featuring a unique case design on the same level as a King Seiko, so that makes sense. While I must admit that of the three anniversary models, this is the least likely I would add to my personal collection, it still feels like a strong expression of the brand’s heritage.

Price and Specs:

Model: Seiko Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’
Ref: SPB538
Case: 35mm diameter, gold-coloured stainless steel
Dial: White enamel
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 6R51, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Leather
Price: £1,700, limited to 1,450 pieces

More details at Seiko.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.