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Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G Flyback Chronograph is a Dream in Denim

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

Earlier this year Patek Philippe announced all the references they would be discontinuing in 2024 and among that list of watches was the entire Nautilus 5980 collection. However, in classic Patek fashion, as soon as they discontinue a model, they bring it back for another hoorah and in this case that’s the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G, a white gold flyback chronograph with a denim style strap.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

The new watch measures 40.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.2mm in white gold. I would argue that steel would be a more appropriate material but ever since the 5711 said its goodbyes in 2021 Patek have been adamant that no more Nautili will be produced in steel. I find this a pretty odd stance to take considering that as an original Gerald Genta design, the Nautilus helped to define the steel integrated sports watch archetype. However, that’s a subject for a different article.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

What we’re focussed on right now is that the Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G features the iconic porthole bezel and angular case. It feels a touch bulkier than the standard Nautilus because of the relatively broad chronograph pushers flanking the crown. The pushers control the central chronograph hand, 60-minute counter and 12-hour counter with the two counters superimposed on top of each other at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

The dial itself is a lovely blue colour that reminds me of the sky just before dusk, starting to darken towards the end of the day. It’s evidently the colour Patek are highlighting this year because it features on a handful of their new releases and was also one of the most popular launches from last year with the Aquanaut Annual Calendar.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

Adding emphasis to the colour of the dial are two new strap options, described as calfskin leather with a denim-pattern and a composite strap with fabric pattern. Both are in matching shades of blue. The denim patterns are an interesting choice because denim is typically associated with hard labour – it was designed to be a hard wearing fabric suitable for workers on railways and mines. It’s industrial in a very literal sense and brings some of that industrial quality to the Nautilus. I don’t want to drag us back to the earlier conversation but a steel version of this watch would make a huge amount of sense. It is pretty unique though and definitely a cool interpretation of a luxury watch strap.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 598060G Caseback

I’m trying to think of a denim-based pun to transition into talking about the movement but all I can think of is “wrapped inside these overalls is the calibre CH 28‑520 C/522”. Maybe there’s a better pun about the Ref. 5980/60G being a blue jean baby or something. Anyway, the CH 28‑520 C/522 is an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve, a 21k winding rotor and a combination of striped and perlage finishes.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G is priced at £67,620, which is about what you’d expect from a Patek. I do think this is the coolest Nautilus they’ve released in a couple of years. Although it’s not likely enough to halt the slumping prices of Nautili on the pre-owned market where the vast majority of references are on the decline. However, considering that those prices are pretty universally well above retail, it’s more of a correction than a crash and Patek’s own margins are going to be just fine.

Price and Specs:

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph
Ref: 5980/60G
Case: 40.5mm diameter x 12.2mm thickness, white gold
Dial: Opaline blue-grey
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Patek Philippe calibre CH 28-520 C/522, automatic, 34 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55h
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, flyback chronograph
Strap: Denim pattern calfskin leather with additional composite strap
Price: £67,620

More details at Patek Philippe.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.