New Releases Watches

Patek Philippe Release Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164G in White Gold for the First Time

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

As we discussed in our coverage of the new Nautilus 5980, a handful of Patek Philippe’s releases this year feature a lovely shade of grey-blue. One of those watches is the Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G which is presented in white gold for the first time. A nice and bright interpretation of the world-trotting watch compared the dark brown and rose gold editions that have come before.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

As the case has been rendered in white gold for the first time, let’s start there. It measures 40.8mm in diameter with the classic porthole shape it shares with the Nautilus. Although its profile is a little less severe due to having more traditionally shaped lugs even though the composite strap is still integrated and smaller crown guards. The white gold provides a bright silver colour and high lustre that’s very attractive. Completing the design of the case are two pushers built into the left-hand side that control the travel time complication.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

By pushing one of the buttons you can advance the local time hour hand forward by an hour and by pushing the other, it moves back an hour. Allowing you to quickly adjust the watch to your new time zone without losing any accuracy or fiddling with the setting of the second time zone. If you’re unfamiliar with Patek’s travel time watches, they operate in a similar manner to a GMT in that they display multiple time zones at the same time.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

However, instead of having a separate 24-hour hand with corresponding scale, they use two hour hands (one solid for local time and one skeletonised for the secondary time) that correlate to the main 12-hour scale. A pair of home and away day/night indicators then serves to inform you which part of the 24-hour cycle is being displayed. It’s a lot more subtle than a GMT display because when you don’t require the use of an additional time zone, you can hide the second hour hand beneath the primary one.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

Completing the display is the date subdial at 6 o’clock featuring a smaller version of the globe-like engraving seen across the rest of the dial. I’m not a huge fan of the pattern compared to the horizontal grooves of the Nautilus. It reminds me too much of the Pan Am logo to be cool. Although considering it’s a travel complication, perhaps that is appropriate.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

The movement powering the Travel Time Ref. 5164G White Gold is the calibre 26‑330 S C FUS. A 45-hour power reserve movement that features the titular travel time complication and date. Interestingly the date is coupled with the local time display meaning that when you jump the hour hand across the boundary of a day, the date will change correspondingly. You can see the movement through the exhibition caseback with its Côtes de Genève finishing and golden rotor.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

With the precious metal case, it’s no surprise that the watch is priced at £54,000. Ultimately this is a case and dial colour update for an existing model so it’s not the craziest release in the world. In fact, a lot of internet chatter has been in regard to the fact that Patek’s release slate isn’t all that impressive this year. I definitely feel like they could have pushed their designs further but at the same time, I do like the understated style of the blue-grey watches.

Price and Specs:

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time
Ref: 5164G
Case: 40.8mm diameter x 10.2mm thickness, white gold
Dial: Opaline blue-grey with embossed Aquanaut pattern
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Patek Philippe calibre 26-330 S C FUS, automatic, 29 jewels, 290 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 35h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone, local and home time indicator
Strap: Blue grey composite with white gold fold over clasp
Price: £54,000

More details at Patek Philippe.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.