Parmigiani Fleurier Celebrate Oliver Smith’s 40th Anniversary - Oracle Time
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Parmigiani Fleurier Celebrate Oliver Smith’s 40th Anniversary

Parmigiani Fleurier and Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition

I love what Parmigiani is doing right now. Not too long ago, I didn’t think I’d be saying that as none of their pieces particularly grabbed my attention – especially for their price tag. But ever since the new Tonda PF surfaced, I’ve been finding myself ever more drawn to the independent manufacture. I’m not the only one either; the new collection’s struck a chord. Fortunately, Parmigiani hasn’t let that success go to their head and, after years of working with the renowned Oliver Smith jewellers, the watchmaker has released a shiny new pair of limited editions in the retailer’s honour.

While we in the UK may not have come across them, US-based Oliver Smith isn’t new to the watch game. They’ve been open for 40 years, with stores in both Aspen and Scottsdale. In that time, they’ve been a staunch supporter of Parmigiani, and the new Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT pieces are a nice way to celebrate that partnership.

Parmigiani Tonda GT Oliver Smith

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith

The new pieces show off the Golden Ratio aplenty, an aesthetic concept of perfection that Michel Parmigiani himself is obsessed by. It makes its way into every Parmigiani piece in one way or another and here it comes across in the charming, balanced look of the 42mm, stainless steel case and fluted bezel.

In the case of the Tonda GT Oliver Smith, that case is joined by a rich brown dial with cream outer ring and small seconds subdial, an aesthetic like a morning coffee before its stirred. It has the same diamond pattern that’s been making its way into every Parmigiani timepiece and is one of the reasons I love them at the moment. It’s gorgeous.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith

In this version the Parmigiani signature is on the right of the dial, with Oliver Smith’s on the left, a double signature that harks back to the old days of retailer editions. It’s a fun touch and one I can appreciate, given I recently dug up an LL Bean-branded Hamilton.

Powering the Tonda GT is the PF044, a lovely-looking number with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s a true manufacture movement, unsurprising given Parmigiani is as vertically integrated as a Swiss watchmaker can be. Overall, it’s a seriously lovely piece, and a decent amount of watch for the money.

Tondagraph GT Oliver Smith

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith

Pretty much everything there is to love about the Tonda GT version also applies here. The main different is that there’s a bit more contrast on the dial due to the tricompax layout, and the Oliver Smith name has been moved to the 6 o’clock subdial.

I can’t say they’re changes I’m enamoured by; the name doesn’t stand out as much there and the Parmigiani name at 12 o’clock just looks a bit more standard than I’d like from a double signed watch. On the flipside, the case really does suit the dual chronograph pushers, which themselves are incredibly elegant and polished to tactile perfection.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith

The Tondagraph is powered by the PF043, which aside from the chronograph function is much the same as the PF044, complete with 45-hour power reserve. It’s equally pretty to look at through the exhibition caseback, too, though looks different with the added complication and extra 23 jewels scattered through the calibre.

Of the two, I prefer the Tonda GT Oliver Smith over the Tondagraph GT Oliver Smith, but either way I’m just happy to see Parmigiani supporting a (what we understand to be) respected retailer. It also shows the versatility of the new collection, hopefully hinting at a few similar editions to come in the future – something I’m doubly hopeful for given there are only 15 Tonda GTs and 5 Tondagraph GTs in this limited run.

Price & Specs:

Model: Parmigiani x Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition
Reference: PFS910-1020001-100182 (Tonda GT Oliver Smith)
PFS906-1020001-100182 (Tondagraph GT Oliver Smith)
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter, polished and satin-finished stainless steel case, Oliver Smith brown Clou Triangulaire guilloché dial
Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Calibre PF044, automatic, 33 jewels (Tonda GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith)
Calibre PF043, automatic, 56 jewels (Tondagraph GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith)
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 45h
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date (Tonda GT Oliver Smith)
Hours, minutes, annual calendar and chronograph, date (Tondagraph GT Oliver Smith)
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price/availability: $17,700, limited to 15 pieces (Tonda GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith) and $23,200, limited to 5 pieces (Tondagraph GT Steel Brown Oliver Smith)

More details at Oliver Smith Jeweler.

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.

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