Parmigiani Fleurier has recently undergone a change of leadership with Guido Terrini taking the helm as CEO and the new Tonda PF collection is the first real test of how things are shaping up under his influence. Mr Terrini was previously the brain behind Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line so we’re expecting a cleaner, more contemporary take on Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature sports watch. There are four versions to take a look at in the PF collection so let’s not waste any more time.
Tonda PF Micro-Roto
First of all, let’s clear up the meaning of ‘PF’, the initials that can be found in the name of the collection and each of the watches that form part of it. It comes as no surprise that is stands for Parmigiani Fleurier, however it’s a reference to the new brand logo that can be found at 12 o’clock, which has done away with the verbose and dominating Parmigiani Fleurier inscription for a refined PF in an oval.
On to the watch. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is the most basic entry in the collection, limited to a time and date function that only sports hours and minutes. The result, which is also in thanks to the introduction of a small logo and smaller indices, is that the vast majority of the dial is bare, really showing off the grey grain d’Orge guilloché, which is stunning.
The silhouette is fairly simple with the case being 40mm of stainless steel and the knurled bezel being made from platinum. That’s right, even the entry level model in the PF collection sports platinum elements, so you can imagine how crazy things are going to get but the time we reach the fourth piece in the collection. It’s worth noting that every watch (except the final one) are also available in full rose gold variants, but across the board the steel and platinum versions are nicer.
Inside, the attention to detail is also of an incredibly high level with the new PF703 calibre featuring a fully platinum micro-rotor. Considering that a large part of the draw to micro-rotor calibres is that they are nicer to look at through an open caseback than their regular counterparts, it’s nice that Parmigiani Fleurier have given it an extra layer of precious metal love, especially as the weight can only help the winding process. It also has a 48-hour power reserve and is incredibly thin, making the entire watch thinner than a Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Ref: PFC914-1020001-100182 (stainless steel with platinum bezel), PFC914-2020001-200182 (rose gold) | Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 7.8mm height, stainless steel with platinum bezel or rose gold, grey grain d’Orge guilloché dial | Water Resistance: 100m | Movement: Calibre PF703, automatic, 29 jewels | Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz) | Power Reserve: 48h | Functions: Hours, minutes, date | Strap: Stainless steel or rose gold bracelet | Price: $22,900, approx. £16,625 (stainless steel), $53,900, approx. £39,125 (rose gold)
Tonda PF Chronograph
The Tonda range is no stranger to its fair share of chronographs, with the best being the Tondagraphs, particularly the panda versions released earlier this year. However, while those watches revel in their intricate, complex design, Mr Terrini has woven his contemporary magic over the Tonda PF Chronograph.
Again, we have a lovely grain d’Orge guilloché dial, this time in blue. With a chronograph, it’s inevitable that we’ll see some subdials interrupting that guilloché, but the tricompax layout here is perhaps the most subtle and attractive I’ve seen in a long time. The typography used is so clean that despite having a full accompaniment of small seconds, 30-minute timer and 12-hour timer, plus additional date window, the dial still feels tidily spacious.
That said, it helps that the watch is larger than the Micro-Rotor version, measuring 42mm across. In the grand scheme of things, it’s by no means massive but it’s a noticeable difference, definitely more in line with modern sports watches. It’s available in both the steel and platinum composition and the full rose gold.
Housed inside is the PF070 integrated column-wheel chronograph movement. Its 36,000vph and 60-hour power reserve make it a great movement and it has some fine finishing as well, most notably an open work rotor in rose gold, which comes in a close second to the micro-rotor for aesthetic improvement to a movement.
Ref: PFC915-1020001-100182 (stainless steel with platinum bezel), PFC915-2020001-200182 (rose gold) | Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 12.4mm height, stainless steel with platinum bezel or rose gold, blue grain d’Orge guilloché dial | Water Resistance: 100m | Movement: Calibre PF070, automatic, COSC-certified Chronometer, 42 jewels | Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz) | Power reserve: 65h | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph | Strap: Stainless steel or rose gold bracelet | Price: $31,000, approx. £22,500 (stainless steel), $69,700, approx. £50,600 (rose gold)
Tonda PF Annual Calendar
By now we’re getting a good grip on the process behind this new collection. Take an iconic complication with all the usual Parmigiani Fleurier flair and pare it back to a more restrained but no less lovely version of itself. Next up is an annual calendar that follows exactly the same logic.
On this watch the dial returns to grey guilloché with the days and months in two subdials either side of the central hand stack and a moonphase at 6 o’clock. A retrograde date function occupies the top two-thirds of the dial’s circumference, which utilises the central date hand with a crescent moon tip.
Like the Chronograph, it has a 42mm case in steel and platinum or rose gold. It’s also worth pointing out that every watch in the PF collection has 100m water resistance, so despite the precious metals they do maintain a certain degree of genuine sportiness. But, you know, I’d still avoid going for a run in one.
The movement inside is the PF339, it has a 50-hour power reserve and has an open work rose gold rotor in the same style as the PF070.
Ref: PFC907-1020001-100182 (stainless steel with platinum bezel), PFC907-2020001-200182 (rose gold) | Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 11.1mm height, stainless steel with platinum bezel or rose gold, grey grain d’Orge guilloché dial | Water Resistance: 100m | Movement: Calibre PF339, automatic, 32 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Power reserve: 50h | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date, month, day of week, moon phase | Strap: Stainless steel or rose gold bracelet | Price: $38,700, approx. £28,115 (stainless steel), $77,500, approx. £56,305 (rose gold)
Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph
Last but by no means least we have the limited edition Split Seconds Chronograph, which only has an availability of 25 pieces. So far, we’ve been teased by the platinum bezels found on the steel models but in this instance Parmigiani has gone all out with a full precious metal case and dial.
The dial layout is identical to the basic Tonda PF Chronograph, with the addition of the rattrapante chronograph hands, a tachymeter around the circumference and a pulsometer. To dispel some of the jargon, a rattrapante function, aka split seconds, allows you to time multiple events at the same time, such as timing individual laps in a longer race. A tachymeter can be used to calculate your speed and a pulsometer, as the name suggests, allows you to easily calculate your pulse rate.
Inside, it houses a new version of Parmigiani’s Chronor movement, the PF361, a split seconds calibre with its mainplate and bridges fully realised in rose gold. It also has a wealth of hand finishing to boot. Just need to look at it – spectacular!
Ref: PFH916-2010001-200182 | Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 15mm height, platinum case, sandblasted platinum dial | Water Resistance: 100m | Movement: Calibre PF361, manual winding, split seconds chronograph, 35 jewels | Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz) | Power Reserve: 65h | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, split seconds | Strap: Platinum bracelet | Price: $171,600, approx. £124,645, limited to 25 pieces
More details at Parmigiani.