When Oris launched the Calibre 400 in the summer of last year our immediate thoughts were: “Please put this movement in more watches!” However, Oris were intent on drip feeding us the calibre in only a select few watches like the 41.5mm Aquis Date and Big Crown Pointer Date. Now the movement is making its debut in another of Oris’ collections in the form of the ProPilot X Calibre 400.
I think a valid question to kick things off with is why is this watch a ProPilot X and not the more common and more popular ProPilot? Well, the regular ProPilot is a watch designed for pilots whereas the ProPilot X is a watch inspired by the mechanics of aviation. It’s a subtle deviation but one worth mentioning.
What that means for the ProPilot X 400 Calibre is that it has a titanium case, which has a strong profile, thick lugs and crown guards – none of which you can find on a regular ProPilot. Titanium is a high intensity material with great corrosion resistance and lightweight properties that make it popular in aircraft and the military. The bolder design also gives it a more technical, engineered look. However, that bolder aesthetic doesn’t mean it’s a big watch as the diameter is 39mm.
Of course, inside that case is the titular Calibre 400. It’s an automatic movement with a 5-day power reserve supplied by a double barrel concept with a stabilised rotor for efficient winding. Oris are so confident in its abilities that every watch equipped with this movement has a 10-year guarantee and 10-year service intervals, which is class-leading reliability.
The final major element is the dial, of which there are three versions available. The colours on offer are grey, blue and salmon, each attractive in their own right although the salmon variant is eye wateringly bright, verging on neon orange. The display is simple and legible in classic pilot’s watch style with central hours, minutes and seconds and a date window at 6 o’clock. Interestingly the grey version’s date function is grey on a black background while the other two are traditional black on white.
At CHF 3,900 (approx. £3,150) the ProPilot X Calibre 400 is the most expensive watch to house the Calibre 400 to date. That’s likely down to the titanium case and its aviation inspired construction, but let’s hope that the more Oris use their seminal movement, the more accessible it’ll become.
Price & Specs:
Model: Oris Titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400
Reference: 400 7778 7153 7 20 01 TLC (grey)
400 7778 7155 7 20 01 TLC (blue)
400 7778 7158 7 20 01 TLC (salmon)
Case/dial: 39mm diameter, multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes, grey, blue or salmon dial, Super-LumiNova® on indices and hour and minute hands
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Oris Calibre 400, automatic, accurate to -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances)
Power reserve: 120h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp with Oris-patented ‘LIFT’ system
Price/availability: CHF 3,900
More details at Oris.