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Oracle Recommends: Microbrand Watches for May 2025

Blackout Watches XP1 Allan Saint-Maximin

Blackout Concept XP1 Allan Saint-Maximin
Blackout Concept XP1 Allan Saint-Maximin

Affordable tourbillons are becoming ever more common, but a watch that not only incorporates the gravity-defying complication but does so in a way you’d more often associate with the likes of Richard Mille is well worth taking notice of. Blackout Watches’ tonneau-shaped XP1 is made from forged carbon and to call it aesthetically intense is an understatement bordering on insult.

It makes sense. As the name suggests, the watch is a collaborative edition with French footballer Allan Saint-Maximin, so impact is the order of the day. And, with a price tag well under £3,000 for a flying tourbillon watch finished and assembled in Switzerland, the price-to-impact ratio is off the charts.

Price and Specs:

Model: Blackout Concept XP1 Allan Saint-Maximin
Case: 44mm diameter x 52mm height, forged carbon
Dial: Brass
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Double barrel flying tourbillon, manual winding
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Rubber
Price: £2,866, limited to 50 pieces

Available at Blackout.

Straum Jan Mayen Alpine Glow

Straum Jan Mayen Alpine Glow

The Norwegian, microbrand equivalent of Grand Seiko, Straum’s all about their nature-inspired dials, riffing off the rugged, Scandinavian wilderness. Yet even by their lofty (if accessible) standards, the new Arctic models are stunning. Of the quartet of models, with their nice but standard blues and greens, it’s the Alpine Glow that I find most fascinating.

It’s designed to emulate the sun dipping below the horizon and the combination of soft pink and sky blue is as gorgeous as it is unusual, complete with a linear wave texture that’s to die for.

Price and Specs:

Model: Straum Jan Mayen Alpine Glow
Case: 38.7mm diameter x 11.5mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Soft pink and sky blue with linear wave texture
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: La Joux-Perret calibre G101, automatic, 24 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 68h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Price: $1,700 (approx. £1,315)

Available at Straum.

AISION Design CMYK Watch Version B

AISION Design CMYK Watch Version B

I like colour. That shouldn’t really be a surprise by now. But I’m not sure even I’m as obsessed with it as AISION Design and their incredibly fun CMYK watch. Quick primer: CMYK stands for Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key (black) and represents the framework for every printing colour.

The dial here has a gradient sector of each colour, so they overlap in various ways. The result isn’t a cool colour; it’s all the colours, with different angles showing up different hues. It’s fantastic and worryingly accessible, even with an automatic movement. Impulse buy for summer?

Price and Specs:

Model: AISION Design CMYK Watch
Case: 38mm diameter x 11.8mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: CMYK gradient sector dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH38, automatic
Power reserve: 41h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel mesh bracelet
Price: £202

Available at Aision.

Grandeur Strange Tiger’s Eye

Grandeur Strange Tiger’s Eye

Stone dial? Check. Weird, asymmetrical case? Check. Price tag to make an auctioneer hot under the collar? Not so much. While Grandeur’s Dali-inspired melting watch has all the makings of a pricey habit you can’t quit, the Stateside brand’s £1,000 price tag is almost unbelievable.

It’s not just the striking, brown-striated stone or the funky titanium (yes, titanium) case, but the fact that it’s a wandering hours watch. Eight does not, in fact, come before one on most dials. Sure, it’s quartz, but given there’s no second hand, who’d even know?

Price and Specs:

Model: Grandeur Strange Tiger’s Eye
Case: 39mm diameter x 10mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Genuine tiger's eye stone
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: In-house automatic movement with strange hour complication
Functions: Hours, minutes
Price: £991

Available at Grandeur.

Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal

Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal

Who needs hands when you have circles? Beaubleu’s whimsical approach to watchmaking is as off-kilter Parisian as anything from Hermès and possibly more eye-catching on the wrist. In the Ecce Vesperal, the time is told with a trio of bubble-like ‘hands’ rotating around the centre.

The large blue circle is for seconds, with minutes and hours getting smaller. Paired with the brushed silver dial, it’s a gorgeously minimal, appealingly unique twist on timekeeping that’s accessible enough to be a quintessential impulse buy. You’re unlikely to see another watch like it any time soon.

Price and Specs:

Model: Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal
Case: 39mm diameter x 9.5mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Brushed silver with concentric circle 'hands'
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9015, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or leather strap
Price: £718

Available at Beaubleu.

3 Comments

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  • Believe it or not, the Grandeur Strange pictured is an automatic. There’s a cheaper quartz version coming soon but not with the stone dial.

  • Good to see a review of realistically priced watches that offer a wide range of styles and choice.
    Obviously due to the very different styles, not every one that was featured is going to float our respective boats as watch lovers, but I guess that is what makes us unique and also keeps the watch makers coming up with new designs.
    My vote goes for the Straum range (you need to click the web link to see the colour choices that are available), but be quick, many are already over subscribed, just goes to show that this Nordic maker is floating its own long boat with many people.

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Staff Writer

Oracle Time Editors represents the in-house editorial team at Oracle Time. Articles published under this byline are collaboratively written, reviewed and verified by the team before publication.