Hands On Horology 2025 - Early Bird Tickets Live

Guides Watches

Oracle Recommends: Microbrand Watches for July 2025

Beaubleu Ecce Figura

Beaubleu Ecce Figura

While the triumvirate of circular hands that defines Beaubleu’s typically French approach to watchmaking eminently suits a round watch, nothing says old-world glamour like a rectangle. Beautifully stepped case in point, the Ecce Figura. The 30mm × 39mm sizing is perfectly suited to the vintage look, while those three ‘hands’ are as much art as chronometry. Yes, there’s a little Chanel and Cartier flavour in the mix, but done in a way that’s uniquely Beaubleu – and just as importantly for most of us, much, much more accessible.

Price and Specs:

Model: Beaubleu Ecce Figura
Case: 339mm diameter x 8.6mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Silver, stepped rectangular dial with circular hands
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9015, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £722

More details at Beaubleu.

ZRC Grand Fonds HETERIUM

ZRC Grand Fonds Heterium
ZRC Grand Fonds Heterium

ZRC has come a long way from its French Navy heritage, and the HETERIUM is the latest step along that road. Yes, it’s a solid diver with a seriously impressive 1,000m water resistance, but it’s designed to look just as good out of the water. With its minimal, grey, dot-indexed bezel, handsome blue dial and military nods – specifically the six o’clock crown and cool, diving bracelet – it’s one of the more distinctive water-resistant propositions out there. It’s also a decent value proposition, too.

Price and Specs:

Model: ZRC Grand Fonds Heterium
Case: 41.5mm diameter, stainless steel
Dial: Blue, military-style with dot-indexed bezel
Water resistance: 1,000m (100 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW300-1, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 56h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: CHF 3,690 (approx. £3,320)

More details at ZRC.

Radia Trinity

Radia Trinity

Forget cutting-edge titanium and ultra-modern designs. Radia’s new field watch is a pitch-perfect throwback to the early days of military timepieces, albeit with its own distinctive character. The 38.5mm case is typical of field watches with the practicality of 200m water resistance, while the three dots at 12 o’clock – a funky alternative to iron sights – and the radially brushed yellow dial set the Trinity apart from the crowd. Crowned by a top hat double dome crystal and paired with a vintage leather strap, this is the kind of watch that looks and feels like something you picked up at your local antique shop but runs like a proper modern timekeeper.

Price and Specs:

Model: Radia Trinity
Case: 38.5mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Radially brushed yellow, three-dot marker at 12
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Vintage leather strap
Price: $479 (approx. £350)

More details at Radia.

S. Craft Transparency N° 3 Pocket Watch

S. Craft Transparency N° 3 Pocket Watch

Now for something completely different. Pocket watches might be a dying art, but that hasn’t stopped a few intrepid watchmakers from keeping the craft alive – and S. Craft’s addition to the foppish canon is downright insane. A full sapphire (the S. in S. Craft) case machined from a single block of the ultra-hard mineral and a skeletonised movement push this worlds apart from your grandad’s old Smiths. It’s fully transparent, patently stunning and despite being in the upper echelons of watchmaking, not nearly as expensive as you’d expect. It’s still a chunk of change – how could it not be – but at around £8,000 it’s a lot of watch.

Price and Specs:

Model: S. Craft Transparency N° 3
Case: 48mm diameter, sapphire
Dial: Skeletonised, fully transparent
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: ETA calibre 6498.1, manual winding
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 46h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Price: CHF 9,000 (approx. £8,000)

More details at S. Craft.

Costins Elysian

Costins Watches Elysian

The debut timepiece from Moldovan microbrand Costins has plenty of cultural heft. The crown is inspired by the Chisinau Circus, the hands taken directly from ancient Moldovan weapons, and the various dial textures come from various cultural artworks and motifs. Even if you’re not into all things Moldovan, the result is a genuinely interesting, visually arresting everyday wearer that’s worth paying attention to when it launches on Kickstarter later this year.

Price and Specs:

Model: Costins Elysian
Case: 40.5mm diameter, stainless steel
Dial: Multicolour, textured with Moldovan cultural motifs
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Price: £395 (early-bird), £595 (RRP)

More details at Costins.

Golby Coastal

Golby Coastal

Finding a diver that suits a smaller wrist can be hard when most brands opt for big and macho over actual wearability. Not so Golby. The eminently wearable, 36mm Coastal not only suits smaller wrists but does so in a way that anyone can wear, regardless of wrist size, style or gender. In large part, that’s down to the wrist presence that comes from the combination of a proper, overhanging diving bezel and an open dial. But let’s be honest, it’s also down to colour – and the Coastal has that kind of beach-ready brightness in buckets and spades.

Price and Specs:

Model: Golby Coastal
Case: 36mm diameter x 10.7mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Oil-pressed with angled chapter ring with minute markers
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 90S5, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £369 (early-bird), £599 (RRP)

More details at Golby.

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Oracle Time Editors represents the in-house editorial team at Oracle Time. Articles published under this byline are collaboratively written, reviewed and verified by the team before publication.