Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer
A GMT is the ideal companion complication for a pilots’ watch. Who else is going to be hopping across medians as often? At least, that’s the thinking behind the latest model from invariably handsome microbrand Brellum. Still, the Pilot LE.1 GMT isn’t just a typical aviation timepiece with an additional hand; it also comes equipped with a 12-hour chronograph for cockpit use and indeed the entire thing is modelled after cockpit instruments, with avionic touches across the board. It’s also chronometer certified making it (hopefully) as reliable as your instrument panel. It’s at the upper end of price for a microbrand release, but between the mechanics, aesthetics and solid build, it’s worth it.
Price & Specs
- 41.80mm stainless steel case with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
- Brellum calibre BR-754 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve
- £3,120, limited to 23 pieces, available at Brellum.
Circula AquaSport GMT
It takes a firm hand to wrangle a good-looking GMT function into a professional dive watch. Evidently Circular have a good grip then because the latest expansion of their solid AquaSport range absolutely nails it. A combination of black and light blue with plenty of orange edging to their lume indexes and a central 24-hour scale, it manages to expand the diving functionality without sacrificing practical legibility. It also looks pretty damn good, too. Backed-up by a top-grade Sellita SW330-1 with 56-hour power reserve, the AquaSport GMT represents seriously good value from the Pforzheim-based brand.
Price & Specs
- 40mm stainless steel case with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
- Sellita calibre SW330-1 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve
- €1,299 (approx. £1,155), available at Circlula.
Méraud Antigua
A good watch takes time and, after three years of designing and anticipation, the Méraud Antigua has been worth the wait. The regatta timer isn’t just aesthetically inspired by sailing watches of the 1960s; the colourful chronograph dial and well-proportioned case house a genuine New Old Stock Landeron 248 calibre, a famous cam switching chronograph from the era. It’s elegant, quirky and if you happen to be a dab hand with a halyard, has a genuinely useful and all-too-rare complication. The only downside, as you might expect given the movement, is that the Antigua is a strict limited edition of just 200 pieces.
Price & Specs
- 40mm stainless steel case with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
- NOS Landeron calibre 248 manual movement with 41-hour power reserve
- €1,750 (approx. £1,560), limited to 100 pieces per colourway, available at Meraud.
Von Doren Il Tempo Gigante
Even amongst the growing grid of retro racing chronographs, the latest from Von Doren is at the front of the pack. Not only is it in a chunky case that feels glorious on the wrist, but the combination of brown, white and yellow on the dial (with plenty of blue glow in low light) leans heavily into the fun 1960s vibe. It’s equally solid inside, with a calibre from the ever more popular maestros at La Joux-Perret. While we can’t say we’ve seen The Pinchcliffe Grand Prix, the stop-motion film on which the watch is based, there’s a lot to love about the Il Tempo Gigante.
Price & Specs
- 41mm stainless steel case with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
- La Joux-Perret calibre L112 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve
- €2,995 (approx. £2,670), limited to 577 pieces, available at Von Doren.
Escudo Ocean Seacrest Preto e Bronze
Another colourway of Escudo’s superb, exploration-focused diving watch, the latest version of the Ocean Seacrest is the most handsome yet. The Tudor- esque combination of black, bronze and steel makes it an absolute stunner, especially given the unique aesthetic twist of the brand’s signature compass point indexes and flag-inspired 12 o’clock bezel marker. With 200m water resistance and the backing of a workhorse Sellita movement, it has all the ingredients for a great boat-to-bar option with a surprisingly accessible price tag.
Price & Specs
- 39mm stainless steel case with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
- Escudo calibre 1488 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve
- £1,600, limited to 300 pieces, available at Escudo.
