MB&F Launch New Salmon Dial Legacy Machine Perpetual in Stainless Steel

The MB&F Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual is one of MB&F’s most prestigious watches, acting as a classical counterpoint to their HM collection. First debuting in 2015, the LM Perpetual has seen multiple variations over the years and has been crafted in almost every traditional watchmaking material, with the notable exception of steel. However, that’s about to change with the launch of the new MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel.

When I say that the watch has been produced in a lot of materials, I really mean it. White gold, red gold, yellow gold, platinum, palladium and titanium have all been used on previous models, the majority of which were produced in extremely limited numbers.

Stainless steel is a nice addition to the collection, combining solid durability and scratch resistance with a bright silvery colour. Plus, as steel is more readily available than precious metals, it’s only the second non-limited version of the watch. Although that comes with the caveat that annual production numbers will still be low.

The case itself measures 44mm in diameter with a smooth bezel and knurled crown. The pusher design and configuration is based on the LM Perpetual EVO, rather than the original Perpetual, which makes sense for the (slightly) sportier steel model as the EVO has a greater focus on ergonomics.

Beneath the skeletonised components of the display, a salmon-coloured dial can be seen peeking through. This is also the first time that MB&F have used a dial of this colour in a steel watch, which is not a massive surprise considering how rarely they use steel in the first place. I like the contrast between the warm tone of the salmon and the cool metal components, it adds a vibrancy and depth that can be lost on some of MB&F’s alternative colourways. It gives the piece a punchy appearance and visual pop as soon as you look at it.

Of course, we can’t talk about an LM Perpetual without addressing at least some of the craziness going on with the skeletonised movement and display. As it’s been around for eight years, I’ll be brief. It’s the in-house MB&F Perpetual Calendar mechanism designed by Stephen McDonnell, featuring a 72-hour power reserve. The display centres around the suspended balance as well as the four dials, which consist of hours and minutes at 12 o’clock, days of the week at 3, months at 6 and date at 9 o’clock. There’s also leap year and power reserve indicators.

The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel is priced at CHF 164,000 (approx. £149,000), so while it’s not a limited edition it will retain a high degree of exclusivity. It does raise the question of whether steel suits a piece of haute horology of this level. If you’re going to part with £100,000+ you may as well go the distance and invest in something precious. However, if you really love the salmon dial, this is the only choice. Thank god it’s a good one.