Jaeger-LeCoultre’s attention to detail is second to none regardless of whether they’re producing an ultra-haute horological watch like the Reverso Hybris Mechanica or their sporty take on a diving watch, the Polaris Mariner Memovox. For 2022 they’ve split the difference between those two watches to produce an haute horology version of the Polaris. Specifically, it’s the first Polaris Perpetual Calendar.
JLC are no strangers to perpetual calendars, having produced them since 1938. However, this is the first time the complication has graced the Polaris collection, which they revived in 2018. The case has a taut and sporty design with a box sapphire crystal, exhibition caseback and a diameter of 42mm. It’s available in either steel or rose gold so you can double down on the sporty element or the elegance.
The display draws its inspiration from the blue gradient dial of the aforementioned Polaris Mariner Memovox. However, instead of representing the deeps of the ocean, it now evokes the change of day into night in reference to the moonphase at 6 o’clock. It’s actually a dual moonphase, simultaneously displaying the phase of the moon in the Northern and Southern hemispheres via a traditional pictogram and a retrograde scale.
Alongside the moonphase there are subdials for the day, date and months, set at 9, 3 and 12 respectively. The beauty is that you won’t have to adjust it until the year 2100 as the perpetual calendar accounts for the varying days of each month and leap years automatically. That’s of course assuming the watch is kept wound. If you do end up needing to change the date for any reason there’s a handy red marker that warns you not to try to adjust it between 20:00-04:00 for risk of damaging the movement.
Speaking of the movement, it’s the new 868AA automatic, which is based on the well-proven perpetual calendar JLC have been using since 2013. It has an improved power reserve of 70-hours and features the brand new southern hemisphere retrograde moonphase. There are also a handful of updates bringing it in line with modern standards.
Perpetual calendars tend to skew elegant rather than sporty so the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is a breath of fresh air. Here’s a watch that feels like you can actually wear it every day for the 78 years it will take until the date needs changing – not one to be kept in a display box.
Price & Specs:
Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar
Reference: Q9088180 (steel case with interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap)
Q9082680 (pink gold case with interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap)
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 11.97mm height, steel or pink gold case, gradient blue lacquer dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA, automatic, 46 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone
Strap: Interchangeable steel bracelet or rubber strap
Price/availability: £26,500 (steel case), £39,600 (pink gold case)
More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
