Well, they went and did it. After months of wondering what Thierry Stern meant about a last hurrah for the newly defunct – but no less legendary – Nautilus 5711/1A, here we have it, and it doesn’t disappoint.
Collectors were hit pretty hard when Patek Philippe announced that their most popular model, the steel cased Nautilus 5711, was going out of production. It was a blow to everyone but sellers and shot prices to the stratosphere pretty much instantly. We were always assured however that before it disappeared completely from Patek’s production line, there would be one last celebration of its achievements.
That celebration turns out to be the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5771/1A Green.
Ref. 5711/1A & 5711/1300A Nautilus
The case is the same as its famous, blue dialled predecessor, coming in at 40mm of pure sports luxe iconography, complete with the porthole bezel, integrated bracelet and, for the first time, a beautiful green sunburst dial. If the timeframes here were any different, I’d assume that Patek saw the latest Audemars Piguet Jumbo and said ‘hold my beer.’
It’s a beauty, the green a lot closer to olive than your usual forest or emerald, a colour that’s been on the up over the last year or so. It’s a less flashy hue and marks a perfect twist to the Nautilus’ casual elegance formula.
Well, at least on the full steel model. The second version, with a diamond set bezel, is a lot less casual, a lot more luxurious. It has the same sizing but just doesn’t have quite the same cool, high impact industrial look.
Both models are equipped with the calibre 26 330 S C J SE movement, with a 45 hour power reserve. It’s been the go to movement for the Nautilus 5711 since 2019 and features a date, silicon Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax balance. It may well be the standard for the 5711 but that just goes to show how exceptional and popular the movement is.
This is the first time Patek Philippe has used this dial and that alone makes this a collectors item, even when compared to the blue. The fact that it’s the last generation of 5711/1A means it may well go down in history as the most sought after new timepiece ever built. If you don’t have one already… good luck.
Because the star of every show needs a supporting cast, this isn’t the only variation of the Nautilus Patek Philippe is releasing this year.
Ref. 5990/1R Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
For the jet setters just itching for travel bans to lift, there’s the Nautilus Travel Time in rose gold paired with an incredibly handsome blue sunburst dial. It’s a solid chunk of gold but otherwise the same as the steel Ref. 5990 this time rendered in rose gold.
That means the Caliber CH 28 520 C FUS is working doubly hard to ensure the familiar utility of classic 5990s while maintaining a façade of easy charm. It has a 55 hour power reserve giving you peace of mind that it won’t wind down on your travels and boasts a flyback chronograph, dual time zone, date function and am/pm indicator. It’s certainly a lot of watch.
Ref. 7118/1450R Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
Then there’s a new haute joaillerie edition, which is nothing short of spectacular. Slightly smaller in size at 35.2mm the rose gold watch with a matching dial and bracelet is completely set with pave diamonds in a unique, random setting. It’s fitted with the Caliber 324 S with sweep seconds.
Both are nice, if flashy versions of the iconic Genta design, but neither really holds a flame to the olive dialled 5711/1A. But then, what watch can? I guess time – and the remainder of Watches and Wonders – will tell.
Price & Specs:
Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus
Ref: 5711/1A (steel case, sunburst olive-green dial)
5711/1300A (steel case, sunburst olive-green dial with 32 baguette-cut diamonds)
5990/1R (rose gold case, sunburst blue dial)
7118/1450R (rose gold case paved with 286 diamonds)
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 8.3mm height, stainless steel (5711/1A & 5711/1300A)
40.5mm diameter x 12.53mm height, 18k rose gold (5990/1R)
35.2mm x 8.65mm height, 18k rose gold paved with 286 diamonds (7118/1450R)
Movement: Patek Philippe Calibre 26‑330 S C 3500, automatic, 30 jewels, 212 parts (5711/1A & 5711/1300A)
Patek Philippe Calibre CH 28‑520 C FUS flyback chronograph, automatic, 34 jewels, 370 parts (5990/1R)
Patek Philippe Calibre 324 S, automatic, 29 jewels, 213 parts (7118/1450R)
Water Resistance: 120m (12 bar)
30m (3 bar) (7118/1450R)
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 35 – 45h (5711/1A & 5711/1300A)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date (5711/1A & 5711/1300A)
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand, 60-minute counter, two time zones, day/night indication for local time and home time in apertures, date coupled with local time by hand (5990/1R)
Hours, minutes, seconds (7118/1450R)
Strap: Integrated stainless steel, 18k rose gold bracelet
Price/Availability: £26,870 (5711/1A) £72,860 (5711/1300A), £81,970 (5990/1R) and £282,340 (7118/1450R)
More details at Patek Philippe.