With the way H. Moser & Cie. are going, they are rapidly rising up the ranks of my personal favourite watchmakers. The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar announced in August is one of the most interesting releases of the year. And while the new Dual Time Heritage Model might not reach the same haute horological heights, it’s still a lovely timepiece.
Its steel case is relatively simple, measuring 42mm in diameter with a classic round shape. The wide crown gives it a hint of pilot’s watch energy in the vein of a Breguet Type 20, which is in line with it being one of H. Moser’s more adventure oriented designs. Although the only adventures it’s really suited to are of the jet-setting variety.
Speaking of jet-setting, it has the iconic traveller’s complication, dual time. It achieves this by having two hour hands, one a lume filled one and a skeleton one, both sword shaped. The lumed one matches the minute hand to tell local time while the skeleton shows a second time zone. Alternatively, you can hide the skeleton hand below its counterpart when it’s not in use.
However, the hands don’t tell the full story of the dial because in typical H. Moser fashion it is gorgeous. A rich burgundy fumé that is bright enough to fit the quasi-adventure aesthetic of the Dual Time Heritage while refined enough for its more realistic dress watch applications. A contrast of styles can also be found on the Arabic numerals. They are large in heritage fashion but made from Globolight®, a modern ceramic material similar to lume.
H. Moser’s HMC 809 automatic calibre provides a 72-hour power reserve, equipped with a highly efficient bi-directional pawl winding system. To create this calibre, H. Moser has added a new dual time module to their existing automatic movement. It doesn’t compare to the excellence of the HMC 812 perpetual calendar, but it’s a great piece and means the Dual Time Heritage is more than a pretty dial.
The only downside of the watch is its price, CHF 19,900 (approx. £17,785). Dual time watches are typically more accessible, as they are relatively simple. However, the unique movement and limited production of H. Moser watches make it quite different from alternatives. Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s also a fabulous watch.
Price & Specs:
Model: H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Dual Time
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 11.6mm height, stainless steel case, burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern
Movement: HMC 809 manufacture calibre, automatic, 27 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h (3 days)
Functions: Hours, minutes, dual time zone, date, central seconds
Strap: Hand-stitched grey kudu leather
Price/availability: CHF 19,900 (approx. £17,785)
More details at H. Moser & Cie.