Gucci 25H Tourbillon Watch Review - Oracle Time
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Gucci 25H Tourbillon Watch Review

Gucci 25H Tourbillon Hands-On

It might surprise those of us not into chic Italian fashion that the legendary Gucci has been dabbling in the watch world for longer than you might expect, with a horological heritage dating back to the 70s. Now, the label is making a play for the upper echelons of fine timepieces with their new high watchmaking collection, the highest of which is the 25H tourbillon.

First, a bit about the collection in general. The name isn’t just recognition that there aren’t currently enough hours in the day. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele has an affinity for a very specific trio of numbers. According to the Italian designer, 2 represents balance and cooperation while 5 represents curiosity and freedom. 7 on the other hand is all about completeness. Well, the 2 and 5 are right there in the name, but if you were wondering where the 7 was, you’ll need to look a little deeper. Right below the dial, in fact.

Gucci 25H Tourbillon
Gucci 25H Tourbillon Bracelet

The real launching off point for the 25H collection is Gucci’s new automatic calibre, the GG727.25 – emphasis on the 7s. It’s the label’s first in-house movement and it’s a stunner. The micro-rotor equipped movement offers a solid 60-hour power reserve and finishing to match the dial, everything you could want from a proprietary calibre.

Yet that movement perhaps shouldn’t come as a big surprise. In case you didn’t know, Gucci is part of Kering group. So are Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, two watchmakers with more than a bit of skill at the craft. Gucci has nicely leveraged that in-group expertise by making use of Kering’s La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture to develop and build the GG727.25.

Gucci 25H Tourbillon Calibre GG727.25.A

Both mechanical 25H models use the same movement with a slight variation, depending on whether you opt for the standard automatic or the tourbillon. Yep, in their inaugural in-house collection, Gucci is coming in hard with a tourbillon and, as you can see from our shots, it’s a serious statement piece.

Gucci 25H Tourbillon Dial

The 25H tourbillon has a very slim 40mm case, slighter than most 70s-inspired pieces in this vein and dressier. It’s all very sleek and stylish, interrupted only by the open tourbillon at 6 o’clock, complete with barred cage that fits in with the satin-brushed horizontal lines of the dial.

It’s a very well-made piece, that much is undeniable. I’m not all that sold on tourbillons as a complication, though them being the most gloriously over-the-top element in watchmaking has some charm. There’s a good reason it made the cover of our Hedonism issue. And as tourbillons go, this is a solid one, falling stylistically between the crazy avant garde stuff a handful of independent watchmakers are doing and the more classical fare from the likes of Breguet.

Gucci 25H Tourbillon Close-Up

The tourbillon is available in platinum or gold; the automatic in steel or bi-colour as befitting their different positions in Gucci’s horological hierarchy. Both models however come on the same style of bracelet, a solid, incredibly comfortable 5-link number that might just be the best machined part of the entire watch.

While I’d have liked to see something between the automatic and tourbillon – a GMT would lend itself nicely to the design – the 25H leaves little doubt that Gucci is ready to bat for the big leagues. Between a solid in-house movement and a cool, 70s-esque design both backed by Kering’s watchmaking chops, the Italian fashion titan has definitely made a statement. I’m genuinely looking forward to seeing where they go with it next.

Price & Specs:

Model: Gucci 25H Tourbillon
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 8mm height, platinum case, dark silver dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Gucci Swiss Made GG727.25.A, automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, open tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Strap: Platinum bracelet
Price/availability: €170,000 (approx. £143,968)

More details at Gucci.

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.

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