Last year Girard-Perregaux introduced the new Laureato Three Gold Bridges combining their signature integrated sports watch with their high end movement architecture and then earlier this year they revealed the updated Laureato Fifty series. Now, they’re fusing those two models together to create the appropriately named Laureato Fifty Three Gold Bridges. We got hands-on with the new watch at Geneva Watch Days last month.
On the wrist, it’s larger than the previous Laureato Fifty watches (including the tourbillon versions) measuring 41mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.85mm as opposed to the typical size of 39mm. Despite the increase in size, it’s still made from steel, preserving the integrity of the Laureato’s integrated sports watch design based on the 1975 original – with a white gold bezel adding a higher lustre and reinforcing the high end positioning of this specific model. Finished with a combination of polishing, circular brushing and straight-line brushing across the octagonal bezel and H-link bracelet.
While the case is nice, I will admit that you barely notice it in comparison to the centrepiece dial that occupies almost your full attention when in the presence of the watch. It’s fully skeletonised with the titular Three Gold Bridges picked out in rose gold against the steel of the case and peripheral minute scale. The lowest bridge at 6 o’clock supports the tourbillon with its lyre-shaped cage, the central bridge is home to the hour and minute hands, and the top bridge supports the power barrel and platinum micro-rotor.
It does suffer from one of the classic problems faced by skeleton displays, which is legibility. The solid rose gold hands sometimes get a bit lost against the backdrop of the golden bridges, especially when they align with the central bridge beneath them. Ironically, the watch is almost easier to read in the dark thanks to lume on the hands and hour markers.
The movement that’s on display through the skeletonised architecture of the dial is a new variation of the GP09620, developed specifically for this watch. It’s produced from 303 components with 418 hand-polished angles. Each watch and movement is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker, and their initials are engraved on the movement alongside the brand logo. The calibre beats at a frequency of 3 Hz with a 55-hour power reserve.
It’s priced at £144,000, emphasising the exclusivity of its haute horology status and hand-crafted prestige. It is an interesting fusion of two of Girard-Perregaux’s distinct approaches to watchmaking – the sporty and the haute – and I do like that aspect of the design. However, given the choice and with no limitation of funds, I think I would still opt for a standard Laureato.
Price and Specs:
More details at Girard-Perregaux.
