Back in October last year Girard-Perregaux kicked off their 50th anniversary celebrations with the launch of the Laureato Fifty Limited Edition, a bi-metal watch that sharpened up the aesthetic of the iconic integrated bracelet sports watch. Now those aesthetic updates become part of the core collection with the release of a full Laureato Fifty subcollection, which also introduces a new size option.
Starting with the cases, the new collection is split between two 39mm references that match the limited edition from last year and two 36mm references. These are the first 36mm Laureatos in the current range, offering a smaller sizing for those with slimmer wrists or who simply prefer the current trend for vintage style proportions. All four are produced in steel with the visual updates seen on the limited edition such as cleaner facets and sharper angles. One of the 36mm options also includes a gem-set bezel in diamond.
Since we’re already focussing on the 36mm options, let’s continue with their dials. The gem-set offering is the most traditional of the four with a silver-coloured Clous de Paris display with a date at 3 o’clock. The second option is a little more extravagant because its Clous de Paris dial is made from solid 18k gold. It’s a pink gold that gives the watch a salmon colour scheme, where the dial looks like the grilled salmon wrapped in the silver of the skin, which is the steel case.
At 39mm the first option is the same salmon gold design seen at 36mm just at the larger sizing. However, it’s the second 39mm reference that is the standout of the entire Laureato Fifty collection. It’s a gorgeously rich blue colour produced in flinqué enamel, which is the term for enamel that is applied on top of an engraved or guilloché base such as the Clous de Paris here. It is very difficult to produce because the textured surface creates significantly more chances for the enamel to crack during production and that’s after you’ve already put in the effort to engrave the dial plate to begin with.
The smoothness Girard-Perregaux has achieved and the intensity of colour is fantastic. Plus, in order to let the enamel be displayed to its maximum effect they’ve opted to remove the date window at 3 o’clock, leaving a clean time only display that to my mind looks even better than the date options. It might be self-indulgent but despite the sheer number of sports-chic watches out there, this is quite possibly my favourite. The angles are sharp, the dial is gorgeous, the finishing is perfect. I can’t find a single visual aspect to critique.
Inside all four of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty watches is the calibre GP4800, an automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve and 4 Hz frequency. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can view its pink gold rotor (particularly thematic on the gold dial versions) and its superb finishing with Côtes de Genève.
For pricing, both the gold dial options are £18,200, the 36mm diamond bezel is £19,100 and the 39mm enamel dial is £19,400. Definitely living up to the luxury side of sports-luxe. Girard-Perregaux are certainly determined to maintain their position as the best non-Genta designed integrated sports watch, competing with the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
Price and Specs:
More details at Girard-Perregaux.
