For a name that carries so much weight in watch design, Gerald Genta has been taking a surprisingly measured approach to its comeback. Rather than rushing out a greatest hits collection, the brand has been building a new identity around the Geneva line, a family defined by sculptural form, light play, and that cushion shaped case that sits somewhere between round and square. After launching the collection with a minute repeater, the latest chapter is intentionally simpler: two new Geneva Time Only references.
The two new versions are called the Marrone and Grafite, and they aim to distil the aesthetic into its purest form while making it wearable day to day rather than purely aspirational. The case is still the star. It keeps the signature gadroon bezel and the contrast of polished and satin surfaces, crafted in house at La Fabrique des Boitiers. There is also a slight redesign to the profile, with the new time only models moving to a slimmer build (8.8mm) and a more versatile 38mm diameter.
On the dial, the minute track is split into two segments: an outer track that follows the cushion outline and an inner track that is perfectly circular. That mismatch creates a subtle optical illusion, giving the dial a sense of depth which is only enhanced by the grained brass dials with a gradient effect. The Marrone is the warm one, pairing a rose gold 4N case and hands with a chestnut brown gradient dial and a brown calfskin strap. It is the sort of palette that feels quietly retro.
Grafite flips the mood. Here the case is white gold, the dial is a silver shaded gradient, and the hands and indexes shift to rose gold 4N for contrast. It is a small change on paper, but it gives the watch a very different character, sharper, cooler, and a touch more summer-y.
Powering both models is the calibre GG-005P, Gerald Genta’s branded take on the ultra-thin Zenith Elite automatic, visible through an exhibition caseback with its Genta branded rotor. The movement keeps a 50-hour power reserve and beats at 4Hz.
Both the Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only Marrone and Geneva Time Only Grafite are priced at CHF 25,000 (approx. £23,400), excluding taxes, and are set to be available from January 2026. If the minute repeater established the collection as an art object, these time only references feel like the point where the line becomes genuinely wearable (though you still need a five-figure budget). I’m a big fan.
Price and Specs:
More details at Gerald Genta.
