Getting hands-on with the latest timepiece from Daniel Roth, it’s easy to understand why this type of high-end, ultra-exclusive watchmaking is popular at the moment. The attention to detail combined with both modern and traditional techniques is captivating. While a reference like the Rose Gold Skeleton, launched earlier this year, has more apparent wow factor, I significantly prefer the watch I have here. It’s the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt.
The byword here is elegance. Starting with the case it has the signature 38.6mm x 35.5mm x 7.7mm proportions of the collection in rose gold. With its polished bezel and matching lugs, it shines with a rich lustre under the lights. On the wrist it wears a little larger than those proportions suggest on paper, which I personally like. That’s due to the double ellipse shape that makes it larger than a circular watch with those measurements.
However, the key new feature of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt compared to the previous Extra Plat models is the dial. Being a ‘gilt dial’ means that rather than having applied or printed numerals, the numerals are created by leaving parts of the rose gold dial plate exposed while applying a coating to the rest of the display. In this case, that dial coating is pure black electroplating. The same gilt technique is used for the brand logo at 12 o’clock and individual production number at 6.
The chapter ring with the Roman numeral hour markers is left smooth while the rest of the display is given a pinstripe guilloché that’s engraved by hand with a rose engine. It makes for a seriously classy finish. The subtle layering of the gold and black coating helps to create a sense of depth in the display while at the same time providing superb clarity. That relatively understated quality is matched by the intentionally simple arrow hands. It’s not often that you can describe a full gold watch with guilloché dial as understated and yet that’s what comes to mind. It’s a design full of earned self-confidence.
Turning the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt over reveals the exhibition caseback through which you can see the calibre DR002, developed and assembled at the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. It’s the same movement that’s used in the previous (non-skeleton) Extra Plat models and offers a 65-hour power reserve with manual winding. The finishing is as high end as you’d expect from this brand with Côtes de Genève, perlage, brushing, polishing and anglage on display.
It’s priced at CHF 55,000 (approx. £49,975) excl. tax, which puts it between the Extra Plat Rose Gold at CHF 50,500 (approx. £45,900) and the Extra Plat Platinum at CHF 65,000 (approx. £59,000). That seems like an appropriate position for the Rose Gold Gilt to occupy given that it’s essentially a more complex version of the Rose Gold edition.
Price and Specs:
More details at Daniel Roth.
