Furlan Marri burst onto the watchmaking scene last year in dramatic fashion with the launch of their inaugural chronograph collection. However, with such hype came the fear that the brand would fall victim to ‘drop’ culture, launching an annual limited release that’s snapped up immediately and doing a disservice to both the fans and the watchmaker alike. Fortunately, such fears were partially allayed earlier in the year with the launch of the more mature Black Sector automatic. And now, with the launch of a trio of new Furlan Marri Chronographs in a permanent collection, the foundations for their legacy are strong.
The cases of the new watches are all identical to the originals, sharing the same 38mm diameter with sweeping curves and thin lugs that give it a faintly retro vibe. Although, it’s the dials where the retro aesthetic is really emphasised as the styling is inspired by the 40s.
Most similar to 2021’s breakout chronographs is the one called Castagna. It has a familiar segmented display featuring central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds, an hour track, a minute track, bi-compax subdials displaying running seconds and 24-hours, and lastly and asthmometer for calculating respiration rate. The major update for the Castagna is a new, earthy colourway and a swap from Roman numerals to Arabic ones for the hour scale.
Rosso Grigio isn’t too different to Castagna except that it’s colourway is more industrial and grey rather than warm taupe or brown. The primary innovation on this edition though is the inclusion of red numerals for the minutes scale, meaning it has the most diverse colour palette of any Furlan Marri.
Lastly there’s the Nero Sabbia, the most unique of the three. It does away with the 24-hour subdial leaving the display asymmetrical, something I wish more watchmakers were willing to do as it looks great.
In terms of style it has a dark dial with gilt accents that enhances the retro feel of the watch, almost giving an Art Deco impression. My preference swings towards the novelty of the Nero Sabbia, although the Castagna is perhaps the most attractive.
All three Furlan Marri Chronographs house the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement. Not particularly exciting or prestigious but it is at least accessible. They’re all priced at CHF 555 (approx. £480), which is at the top end for meca-quartz watches but is ultimately reasonable considering the intricacy and quality of dial and case.
Plus it’s reassuring to know that as these are a permanent collection you have plenty of time to consider before having to click the order button. Hopefully that will stop the resale price going as crazy as the original chronos which can fetch upwards of £1,500.
Price & Specs:
- Model: Furlan Marri Nero Sabbia, Rosso Grigio and Castagna Chronograph
- Ref: 1072-A (Nero Sabbia)
1085-A (Rosso Grigio)
- Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 11.8mm thickness (Rosso Grigio and Castagna) or 12mm thickness (Nero Sabbia), stainless steel case, black and sand colours (Nero Sabbia), grey and red (Rosso Grigio) or circular brushed and vertical brushed two tones blue colour dial (Castagna)
- Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
- Movement: Seiko VK64 mechaquartz
- Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph with asthmometer (5 respirations) scale, 24 hours indications (Rosso Grigio and Castagna) or chronograph with pulsometer (15 pulsations) scale, 60 minutes counter (Nero Sabbia)
- Strap: Beige vegetable tanned Italian leather with beige stitching and additional black vegetable tanned Italian leather strap with cream stitching (Nero Sabbia), burgundy vegetable tanned Italian leather strap with cream stitching with additional grey vegetable tanned Italian leather with cream stitches strap (Rosso Grigio), brown vegetable tanned Italian leather with brown stitching and additional brown vegetable tanned Italian leather strap with cream stitches (Castagna)
- Price/availability: CHF 555 (approx. £480)