Fears’ latest revamp of the Redcliff is certainly a statement, one that will certainly catch a few people by surprise. In fact, you can find my rambling thoughts on it here. But while there’s one out-of-leftfield release, Fears’ have also launched two refinements to a pair of Brunswick models that are far less outlandish. For the classic 38mm cushion cased model, we have the new Brunswick 38 ‘Charcoal Rose’ and for their great little jump hour model, we have the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Barleycorn’.
Brunswick 38 ‘Charcoal Rose’
We’re used to pared-back, classically elegant versions of Fears’ classic, 1930s-inspired Brunswick. There’s a reason the straight-up white is a classic of modern British watches. What we aren’t used to is a high-contrast opulent twist like the new Charcoal Rose.
As the name suggests, the dial goes for that classic luxury look of black and gold, specifically a very dark charcoal grey and rose gold. If the pared-back versions of the Brunswick are less-is-more, quiet British luxury, this is very… Novikov. It’s a cool new look that shows a different side of the collection and I’m here for it – even if I’ll stick to my white version.
Not all the changes are as on-the-nose as the colour palette. The numerals have been widened to soften the look, and the combination of grained charcoal dial and concentric guilloche rose gold subdial makes it one of the most nuanced Brunswicks we’ve seen. Now, if they did a silver and yellow gold version, I might just need to trade in my white.
Otherwise, this is the Brunswick we know and love. That means a 38mm stainless steel case and a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100 movement with its 50-hour power reserve (which they’ve adopted as the collection’s standard with several releases at this point after originally using ETA for the main body of the collection). Fortunately, as the rose gold is plated rather than solid, it’s also the price we know and love: £3,450.
Price and Specs:
Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Barleycorn’
This one is a relatively minor change in the grand scheme of things but one that’s incredibly welcome. Ever since it was introduced as a commemorative one-off for the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, Fears’ cushion-cased Jump Hour take on the classic Brunswick has been a success story. It likely helps that they were a bit ahead of the current jump hour curve.
The change here isn’t in the layout, movement or 40.5mm stainless steel case but the finishing – specifically, the dial finishing. In keeping with its more haute horological leanings (not to mention right on the heels of the gorgeous rectangular Arnos), the dial now has a bushel of barleycorn guilloche.
As previously it’s powered by Christopher Ward’s JJ01 module (the basis of the Bel Canto’s chime) on top of a Sellita SW200, so nothing new there. But with the combination of barleycorn finery and the plum-coloured lacquer paired with a matching Alcantara strap, it’s a fresh take on the Brunswick Jump Hour that really matches its high-end leanings.
Fortunately, those leanings don’t impact too much on price, and £4,250 for a well-made, impeccably finished jump hour watch is pretty damn tempting.
Price and Specs:
More details at Fears.
