Bulgari’s Lightweight Aluminium Gets a Globe-Trotting GMT Function - Oracle Time
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Bulgari’s Lightweight Aluminium Gets a Globe-Trotting GMT Function

Bulgari Aluminium GMT

When Bulgari brought back their 90s throwback last year, it was the overdue return of a quirky icon. It also happened to be a pretty damn comfortable wear and, overt bezel branding included, I found myself falling for it as a casual, everyday watch.

It makes sense then that Bulgari are taking that casual, everyday template and adding one of the only genuinely useful complications into the mix, the go-to traveller’s complication, the GMT. You know, now we can actually travel. Sometimes.

And no, the chronograph that’s already in the collection isn’t all that useful. When do you actually use yours?

Bulgari Aluminium GMT & Bulgari Aluminium

Structurally, the GMT is the same as the base Bulgari Aluminium, with the same lightweight 40mm aluminium case paired with a stamped rubber bezel, crown guard and funky, articulated strap. It’s pretty perfect for warm weather, which is kind of what you want in a travel watch. The dial though is a completely different affair.

Instead of the monochrome that’s defined the collection’s chic aesthetic so far, the GMT opts for a blue and red 24-hour inner bezel, with the colours used to differentiate day and night respectively. The red’s matched on the second and GMT hands too, which stand out nicely against the blue main dial.

Bulgari Aluminium GMT

It’s pretty straightforward as GMTs go and only tells two timezones rather than the three of GMT-Master II clones. In that regard it’s a little penned in by its bezel which needs that Bulgari printing to fit into the collection. Which is fine by me, one’s all I ever need, even when I do travel.

Inside is the B192 calibre automatic movement, with a 42-hour power reserve. It’s a solid, everyday engine to what’s looking like a solid, everyday travel watch.

Bulgari Aluminium GMT

Perhaps my only real issue with the Aluminium GMT is its colouring. Blue’s… fine. It’s handsome enough but it’s about as exciting as black these days and honestly, I prefer the cool, high-contrast black-and-white look of the rest of the collection far and above this.

Still, it’s a nice addition and who knows? Maybe this means Bulgari will start bringing in some funkier colourways into a collection that could really do them justice. Either way, this is a decent, uniquely 90s timepiece for any would-be globetrotter in need of an accessible retro timekeeper.

Now to book a holiday so I have an excuse to try it out.

Price & Specs:

Model: Bulgari Aluminium GMT
Reference: 103554
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter, aluminium case, blue dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Calibre B192, automatic
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour hand for second time zone
Strap: Blue rubber strap with aluminium links and pin buckle
Price/availability: £2,890

More details at Bulgari.

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.

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