Bulgari’s trio of new releases for Geneva Watch Days are quite possibly their most interesting launches in the past 18 months. Each one offers a completely different style and visual identity even though two of them are ostensibly from the same collection. They are the Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter, Octo Finissimo Dazzle and Bulgari Titanio.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter
For the first time in the Octo Finissimo’s history, Bulgari have partnered with an independent watchmaker to create a collaboration timepiece inspired by that watchmaker’s vision. ‘That watchmaker’ in this case is Vianney Halter, the master horologist known for his distinctive aesthetic based on the retro-futuristic style of sci-fi novels and Jules Verne. In my opinion, it’s a partnership made in heaven because Halter’s bold, steampunk style meshes incredibly well with the Finnisimo’s angular, facetted design.
The case, available in either titanium or pink gold, measures 40.5mm in diameter and 9.7mm in thickness. There are four subdials built into the stepped and layered case. Offset towards 2 o’clock is the hour and minute subdial, diagonal to that at 8 o’clock is the dual time GMT subdial superimposed with a red arrow small seconds hand. To the right of that at what would traditionally be 5 o’clock is the day/night indicator and then the final, elongated window at 11 o’clock is the date (consisting of a rotating disk that passes through a fixed, semi-circular indicator).
The three circular subdials have rivet-style bezels that look like they might be straight from the Nautilus – the one commanded by Captain Nemo, not the Genta-designed Patek Philippe sports watch. The dials themselves are white with blue hands, which is Halter’s signature colour combination. It’s also co-signed with both the Bulgari and Vianney Halter logos present on the time subdial and day/night indicator respectively.
Below the Bulgari logo, the watch also denotes the movement held inside, the BVF 200. It’s an automatic movement with a platinum rotor that provides a power reserve of 60-hours when fully wound. It’s just 5.49mm thick, a testament to Bulgari’s excellence in the realm of ultra-thin mechanisms. Working on a world-leading ultra-thin movement like this was part of the attraction of the project for Vianney Halter.
Overall, it’s an intriguing fusion of styles that really works. For once I actually prefer the gold over the titanium because it has more of that brassy, retro aesthetic that works super well with Halter’s designs. The titanium edition is limited to 30 pieces while the gold is limited to 10.
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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dazzle
At Oracle Time, we know a thing or two about dazzle pattern camouflage having released the Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle last year. For Bulgari to release their own take on the camo pattern is an unexpected delight. However, there is a major difference between our Dazzle watch and Bulgari’s and that’s the inspiration behind it. We based our design on historic naval camo designed to confuse and confound targeting systems but Bulgari’s actually draws on the motoring industry. There is a tradition that unreleased cars that being driven for testing are given a Dazzle pattern across their bodywork so that sneaky photographers can’t get a good look at the car ahead of release, obscuring its shape.
In design terms, that means Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Dazzle uses a more regular pattern of black and white squares compared to the navy’s chaotic multi-tone design with irregular shapes. While it is unquestionably daring and ‘out there’ for Bulgari, I do wish they had pushed it even further. As is, it looks a little bit like a QR code rather than an illusion meant to deceive the eye. Although a QR code design wouldn’t be a first for Bulgari as they created an actual QR code on 2022’s Finissimo Ultra.
The Finissimo Dazzle measures 40mm x 5.15mm in sandblasted titanium. It houses the BVL 138 automatic movement with micro-rotor and 60-hour power reserve. It’s equipped with central hours and minutes with small seconds at 8 o’clock. If you’re looking for a watch that will start conversations, this one will certainly do that.
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Bulgari Titanio GMT & Chronograph
Bulgari Titanio translates from Italian to Bulgari Titanium and that tells you pretty much the whole story of this pair of watches. They take the Bulgari Aluminium sports watch and swap the case material to titanium. In many regards, titanium is the modern replacement to aluminium in the watchmaking industry as a lightweight alternative to steel. Titanium has a better tensile strength than aluminium, a better strength-to-weight ratio and is more resistant to scratches and temperature shifts. In short, it’s superior across every meaningful metric.
There are two versions of the Bulgari Titanio being produced, a GMT and a Chronograph. They both feature the collection’s signature rubber bezel in black – a sporty addition that protects the watch from being bashed. That black bezel pairs with a black dial featuring each reference’s respective complications. The GMT with its grey/black 24-hour scale and the Chronograph with its tricompax subdials.
Because of the different suite of functions, the two Bulgari Titanio models house different movements and as part of that are also slightly different sizes. The GMT is the smaller of the two at 40mm housing the B192 with 50-hour power reserve. The Chronograph is then 41mm with the B381 and a 42-hour power reserve.
In titanium, these watches take the sporty promise of the Bulgari Aluminium and deliver on it in a practical and utility focussed manner. I’m also a fan of their slick monochrome appearance in grey, black and white.
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More details at Bvlgari.
