At the tail end of 2024 Breitling released a limited edition 140th anniversary collection which included the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. A watch that featured the Swiss maison’s first ever manufacture perpetual calendar chrono movement. Now that movement is making its first appearance outside of the anniversary limited edition, joining the core Navitimer collection in the form of the Breitling Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in ice blue.
The watch measures a broad 43mm in diameter in stainless steel with a bi-metallic construction that sees the bezel produced from platinum. It adds a luxe edge to the sporty aviation watch that’s fitting for an haute horology perpetual calendar. Adding to its wrist presence is a thickness of 14.94mm, making it something of a wrist monster. But hey, if you’re going to show off any watch, why not a platinum bezel perp cal?
One of the largest changes between this edition of the B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and its anniversary limited version, aside from the case materials, is the dial. Instead of golden coloured it’s now a lovely shade of sky blue (in watchmaking light blue is a very common pairing with platinum, especially from the likes of Rolex). The pale tone really lets the sunray brushing come to the fore and contrasts nicely with the darker navy blue of the moonphase subdial at 12 o’clock. The subdials also show contrast by having snailed finishing rather than sunbrushing.
There is a lot of information on display here. Starting with the bezel it features a circular slide rule scale, which you can learn all about here. Inside that is the standard hour and minute scale with baton markers that also doubles up as the chronograph seconds scale. The four subdials then display moonphase at 12, 30-minute timer and date at 3 o’clock, leap year and month at 6, and then finally small seconds and days of the week at 9.
All these myriad complications are controlled by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19 automatic movement. It has a 96-hour power reserve, which is seriously impressive for a watch as complicated as this due to the power intensive nature of housing multiple functions. It’s also COSC chronometer certified, ensuring great accuracy and reliability in multiple conditions.
It’s worth noting though that while this is now a core collection model, that doesn’t mean it’s not still extremely exclusive (if the platinum bezel wasn’t enough to communicate that). On the steel, seven-link bracelet it has a price of £25,400. Whether it’s expanding their technical, in-house production or adding more brands to their banner like Universal Genève and (rumour has it) Gallet, it’s nice to see Breitling pushing their boundaries.
Price and Specs:
More details at Breitling.
Certain watch styles automatically spring to mind when watch makes name are mentioned (Rolex = Sea dweller, Omega = Seamaster etc), when Breitling is mentioned this usually conjures up either the marine related timepieces or the pilot related pieces so no change here.
Yet another release that is oversized (IMO) at 43mm and a bit garish due to the dial colour. My main criticism’s are that the silver hands are lost against the light blue which makes it difficult to read the time (after all, reading the time is the main feature of having a watch). My second criticism is the use of platinum for the bezel – why?, as Michael points out, not really a good choice as it not durable, and at £25k. The question must be asked, – Is this Breitling’s answer to other manufacturers high cost low practicality releases of late.
I think I will retain my vintage Breitling dress watch.