Awake’s modus operandi has always been to create stunningly colourful watches using traditional artistic techniques. The classic Sơn Mài highlights the niche craft of Vietnamese lacquer to stunning effect while the Fragments explores a Japanese technique called Raden. For their latest collection they’re highlighting authentic, hand-made Italian guilloché produced by Renzetti workshop, combined with Sơn Mài lacquer. The new collection, perhaps unsurprisingly, is called the Awake Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main, limited to 200 piece per colour.
Let’s jump straight to the dials. There are three to choose from, each with a different guilloché pattern engraved by hand using traditional straight-line and rose engines. Once they are engraved in Italy, they are sent to a prestigious workshop in Hanoi, Vietnam to receive their vibrant Sơn Mài lacquer. The lacquer gives them an almost metallic shine while featuring a rich depth of colour and intense gradient.
Each of the dials is dedicated to a different aspect of the sun. Alba, in orange, is the bright light of day. Its spiralling guilloché pattern conjures images of heat haze rippling through the sky as the burning corona beats down on the Earth. Second is Sunset, in purple. This is the most unusual of the guilloché patterns known as drapé-moiré, a straight-line guilloché that undulates like fabric or the waves of the sea. Third is Borealis, inspired by the phenomenon caused by solar winds hitting the atmosphere. It’s a gorgeous green colour with a wavy guilloché like the curtains of light in the aurora.
Alongside the new dials, Awake Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main features an updated case design and refreshed logo. It’s still based on the standard Sơn Mài design but now it’s downsized from 39mm to 38mm. The thickness has also been slightly reduced from 11.8mm to 11.5mm. It features a polished concave bezel and downward curving lugs.
Inside the case is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic with 68-hour power reserve. It has a custom tungsten rotor that marks it as ‘La Joux-Perret Pour Awake’, LJP for Awake. It’s a highly regarded movement in independent and microbrand circles thanks to its higher power reserve compared to the majority of third-party calibres.
The Awake Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main is priced at €2,650 (approx. £2,300) excluding taxes. That does make it the most expensive Sơn Mài model to date but also, it is undoubtedly the most complex in its Metiers d’Art design. Plus, authentic hand-engraved guilloché at this price is still extremely respectable value, especially in combination with an LJP movement. There’s a huge amount to love here.
Price and Specs:
More details at Awake.
