We’re more used to seeing cool, technologically advanced quartz movements from the Japanese watchmaking giant that is Citizen, especially since their last new mechanical calibre was way back in the halcyon days of 2010. Over a decade later however, Citizen has launched a brand new take on an iconic 1995 model, complete with a newly-made calibre: The Citizen Mechanical.
The Citizen (that is indeed the model name) was originally created in 1995 and was the group’s equivalent of Grand Seiko, meaning what they considered to be the perfect, time-only watch. It’s aged extremely well and the steel case with its broad, flat bezel and integrated bracelet feels like another ode to Gerald Genta.
Back then, The Citizen was quartz. As is the case with many a revived watch design, the aesthetics have been kept in line with the vintage original (though thinking of the 90s as vintage is making me feel incredibly old) but with updated mechanics. Rather than some cutting-edge Superquartz though, Citizen has taken the opportunity to bring a new level of luxury to their battery-powered icon with the automatic calibre 0200.
The movement itself has some serious watchmaking expertise behind it. Rather than work entirely in-house, Citizen have enlisted the help of La Joux-Perret S. A, a manufacture behind many a quality-driven manufacture. Not that the Citizen Calibre 0200 is Swiss-made; the final work is done in Japan by Citizen, which is interesting given how important the words ‘Swiss’ and ‘Made’ are to some watchmakers.
The Calibre 0200 itself has an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day, which is better than COSC standards. It’s finished well, though more subtly than most Swiss movements and has a solid power reserve of 60 hours. In short, it’s a great all-round, time-only calibre – hopefully a sign of things to come from Citizen.
Price & Specs:
Model: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
Ref: NC0200-90E
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 10.9mm height, stainless steel, black sand-rippled textured dial
Water Resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: In-house calibre 0200, made in collaboration with La Joux-Perret S.A, automatic, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price/Availability: £6,000, available early autumn 2021
More details at Citizen.
