What Does ‘Jubilee’ Mean to Rolex?

The most talked about Rolex launch at this year’s Watches & Wonders was undoubtedly the Oyster Perpetual with the ten colour Jubilee dial. Alongside showcasing the brand’s mastery of dial printing, it was another reminder that Rolex is happy to let its entry-level model have a bit of fun, echoing the multi-colour “Champagne Bubbles” (Celebration) dial from 2023 and the high-gloss single colour lacquer dials from 2020.

The original Jubilee dial was launched in 1985 and uses the capital letters R O L E X stamped into the dial surface from the rear, so that the letters stand proud of the dial. The arrangement of the letters is such that the diagonal strokes of each “X” align forming diagonal bars across the dial. Over the 40 years that it has been in production, it has been available in discreet monochrome finishes as well as much more flamboyant expressions with tapestry backgrounds, with or without precious stones.

But most people associate the name ‘Jubilee’ with the dressier of the two bracelets available for the Datejust, with five links and most often seen in a two tone (or Rolesor) configuration with the three centre links in gold. The bracelet was launched at the end of 1945, along with the Datejust in a celebration of the 40^thanniversary of the founding of Wilsdorf & Davis. But Rolex chose not to use the word ‘anniversary’, instead choosing the more regal sounding ‘Jubilee’.

Interestingly, the name did not originally apply to the bracelet, rather it applied to the watch itself. Both the original Datejust and the ladies’ Perpetual launched simultaneously, were both known as the ‘Jubilee Watches’, and whilst the Datejust did feature the new Jubilee bracelet (in 18ct only, of course) it did not have the well-known deployment clasp. Rather the first iteration of the Jubilee bracelet was a two piece bracelet.

I love that Rolex have chosen to use the new multi-colour Jubilee dial on the simplest of their watches; only in stainless steel, no milled bezel and no date window; nothing to attract attention away from the exuberance of the dial. I’m not usually one for predictions, but I suspect this will end up being the most sought-after model once it reaches retailers.