No watch design is truly static for long. Even icons are periodically updated to incorporate the latest technology and material advances to keep up with the rest of the industry and meet the expectations of modern collectors. Tag Heuer have decided that Watches & Wonders 2026 is the perfect opportunity to launch the new generation of their signature Monaco Chronograph. It’s presented in two versions, a reworked core collection and new high-spec Monaco Evergraph edition.
Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph
To understand the aesthetic updates that are present in the new Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph, you have to first understand the heritage of the collection. The most famous expression of the watch is the Ref. 1133 from the late 1960s and early ‘70s – the original model that earned cult status thanks to support from collectors like Steve McQueen. However, it was only ever afforded ‘cult’ status because of a relatively short production period. The model was then revived in the late 1990s but with some notable design differences – rounder and softer in its shape language. The 2026 revamp takes us back to the design codes of the 1133.
What that means in practice is that the dial and sapphire crystal have a sharper, more overt square shape, which has been achieved by the addition of a small lip around the edge of the display – where a bezel would be, although it’s so low and slim that I would hesitate to call it an actual bezel. Additionally, the overall case shape is a bit sharper because while the sides of the case are still curved, the arc of the curve is shallower. This small detail is most apparent on the bi-metal edition produced in titanium and rose-gold plating as opposed to the other two in full titanium. While we’re talking about the case, also worth pointing out the crown is in its original position at 9 o’clock rather than 3.
Focussing in on the dials, they’re all based on the 1133, which means we have the traditional horizontal hour markers of differing lengths across the hour scale. There are three colourways being produced: the first is the traditional blue, red and white inspired by the watch worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans, the second is a sunray brushed green edition with black subdials and lastly the bi-metal edition is reverse panda.
Powering the Tag Heuer Monaco revamp series is the calibre TH20-11, the latest generation of the TH20-00. It maintains the core specs such as the 80-hour power reserve but moves some of the functions around on the display. Most notably, the 12-hour counter is flat out gone and the movement now has a bi-compax layout with small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 and a date window at 6 o’clock. Previously the date window intersected with the small seconds, which was a bugbear for many collectors, so the new design (should that be old design as it’s based on the 1133?) makes the watch feel cleaner.
The two 39mm titanium editions are £7,900 while the bi-metal is £11,000. That does increase the price of the Monaco yet again, up from £7,000 for the previous model. It pushes the Monaco more and more into that high-end luxury chronograph bracket as opposed to the mid-range that Tag Heuer is more commonly associated with, but it does also create a bigger gap between the Monaco and the Carrera creating a clearer distinction between those collections.
Price and Specs:
Tag Heuer Monaco Evergraph
Tag Heuer has been experimenting with the implementation of carbon hairsprings for their watches for a long time, with multiple false starts along the way. But in September of last year they declared they had finally overcome the challenges with the launch of the TH-Carbonspring. With the new Tag Heuer Monaco Evergraph, we see that technology being used in a non-limited edition for the first time, alongside the unveiling of a new chronograph system.
Let’s start with the new Evergraph chronograph system. It replaces all the levers and springs typically used in a chronograph mechanism with a ‘bistable, compliant mechanism’. To de-mystify that jargon, a compliant mechanism is a structure that bends or distorts its physical shape in order to function, rather than operating via multi-part levers and hinges – a simple compliant mechanism is a paperclip. Being bistable means that it has two natural resting positions that it can swap between when you apply force – the simple example here is a light switch. So when you press the chronograph pusher, you are bending the mechanism to move it from off to on.
The advantages of this mechanism over a traditional chronograph system are that there are fewer positions of mechanical stress i.e. fewer parts that can break or go wrong. This improves the longevity and consistency of the mechanism – the feel of engaging the pushers should be identical every single time. Additionally, the chronograph engages faster once you press the pusher as there are less components that the energy needs to be transferred through.
This new mechanism is joined by the TH-Carbonspring oscillator to make the TH80-00 one of Tag Heuer’s most advanced chronographs to date, especially in a standard collection model. The Carbonspring offers superb anti-magnetic resistance as well as operating at the hi-beat frequency of 5 Hz with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can see its checkered flag style finishing.
For the aesthetics of the Monaco Evergraph, it draws heavily on the Split-Seconds Chronograph with its openworked display and prominent bridges. It has central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds with a small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 60-minute counter at 3. There are two versions of the watch being produced, one in black and red with a DLC coating on the 40mm titanium case and the other in blue and grey with the dark grey of the titanium on full display.
Given the new movements and innovative mechanisms integrated into them, these watches introduce a new price bracket within the Monaco collection at £20,000. That’s roughly 3x the price of one of the standard Monacos featured above while being approximately 1/7th of the price of a Monaco Split-Seconds. So it’s definitely high end but far from the most expensive Monaco that Tag Heuer produces, which reflects this being the new high-spec non-limited offering.
Price and Specs:
More details at Tag Heuer.
