It’s not a revolutionary statement to say that when people set out to make a watch brand, whether that be a micro, independent or major brand, they tend to have a vision for where they want that brand to go. Sometimes they realise those dreams instantly and sometimes the journey can take years. The latter is true for Atelier Wen, who were founded in the mid-2010s with the dream of producing an ultra-high-end watch to prove that the fusion of European and Chinese production can rival any luxury watchmaker in the world. After years building connections and producing popular, accessible sports watches, they are finally in a position to launch that ‘someday’ ultra-high-end timepiece that has been in development since 2022: the Atelier Wen Inflection.
Picking up the box that contains the watch, let alone the watch itself, instantly tells you that this watch is different to anything they’ve produced before. It is heavy. And I mean HEAVY. Opening the box reveals why: the Inflection has a dark blueish-grey metal case with matching integrated bracelet. Darker than steel but with a higher lustre than titanium, this watch is made from full tantalum.
A rare metal that is incredibly difficult to shape due to its high density, which is also what gives it a surprising weight. Hence why it tends to be reserved for high end brands like H. Moser & Cie. and watches like the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum. Produced in small numbers with leather straps. The fact that the Inflection is a full production model in this metal with a full tantalum bracelet makes it a world first.
Structurally, the case measures 40mm in diameter in a shape that’s reminiscent of the Perception with its slightly flared sides. However, unlike the flat surfaces of the Perception, everything here is curved in alternating concave and convex styles, including the bracelet. Those curves are part of the concept of balance that defines the overall design of the case, as epitomised in the traditional Chinese notion of Yin and Yang. Each aspect of the design has its equal and opposite counterpart – so convex and concave curves, brushed and polished finishing and even the weight of the tantalum is balanced by the wind motif of the finishing across the movement as seen through the exhibition caseback.
Looking to the dial, the idea of high-end production continues here. It’s made from Grand Feu enamel produced by the Kong Lingjun workshop, who hold the national designation of ‘China Enamel Watch [Beijing] Manufacturing Centre’, marking them as among the foremost producers of enamel dials in the country. Which really comes across in the smoothness of the colour gradient and intricacy of its textured surface. On top of the dial are custom Arabic numerals created by well-known Chinese watch designer Lee Yuen-Rapati. There are actually three dial variants being produced.
The version we have here is called the Yōu, it’s the launch edition limited to 30 pieces globally in gradient green. The non-limited versions that make this a world first are the Mò in black and Yuān in blue. Between all versions of the watch there will be an annual production of 100 pieces, meaning in the first year there will be the 30 Yōu and then 70 Mò and Yuān split on a made-to-order basis depending on what each collector who buys one wants. Atelier Wen have stated they hope to increase production capacity year on year by a small amount.
I mentioned briefly the movement that’s visible through the caseback and in keeping with the philosophy of the rest of the watch, they haven’t skimped here either. Rather than any of the typical third-party movement providers they’ve opted for the Girard-Perregaux GP03300, customised with that aforementioned Chinese wind motif finishing. It’s so immaculately finished that you’d be forgiven for mistaking it as a manual movement, but the swirling golden spokes are actually part of the tungsten rotor despite being practically unrecognisable as anything other than a decorative element. It has a 48-hour power reserve and is adjusted in five positions to achieve an accuracy of -0/+10 per day.
Between all the intentionally high-end elements of the design, it necessarily has a high price to match. Specifically, it’s $29,800 (approx. £22,730) on bracelet or $19,800 (approx. £15,100) on sailcloth and rubber strap. But come on, the bracelet is half the point of this release plus you receive a complimentary strap in addition. Additionally, due to the high end and limited production of the Inflection, each purchase includes a personal interview with the company’s founders.
Price and Specs:
$19,800 (approx. £15,100) - strap
Limited to 30 pieces
More details at Atelier Wen.
