The 1970s were a bold time for watch design, seeing the advent of the steel sports watch with integrated bracelet, which today we associate most closely with the work of designer Gerald Genta. However, in 1975 a non-Genta sports watch emerged that would become a classic in its own right: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In celebration of the collection’s 50th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux have launched the Laureato Fifty limited edition, which we have been hands-on with.
It features a 39mm bi-metal case in dark grey steel and 3N yellow gold, inspired by the bi-metallic design of the original Laureato. It has a good weight to it thanks to the combination of steel and gold, though it’s not so heavy as to be uncomfortable on the wrist – that weight and presence does mean it feels a bit larger to actually wear than it is on paper. Its shape and style though are thoroughly modern, with sharper facets and more bevelled edges compared to the original tonneau design. The signature octagonal bezel also features alternating brushed and polished surfaces. In terms of size, 39mm puts it in between the more common 42mm options and smaller 38mm offering.
Up close you can really admire the precision of the finishing, as well as the characteristic hobnail (aka Clous de Paris) dial. Here it’s presented in a grey tone to match the steel of the case, contrasting with the gold of the pencil shaped hour markers and hands. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock that’s colour matched to the dial. Colour matched date wheels are one of those details that I feel, while not always 100% necessary, really demonstrate attention to detail from a brand and a willingness to address every tiny element with the same degree care.
While the watch is aesthetically very nice with its modernised interpretations of those original 1975 features, what makes the Laureato Fifty truly special is the movement. It’s a brand-new piece called the calibre GP4800 and has been in development for years. It’s designed to be as compact as possible, allowing it to be housed in a wide range of watches both small and large, measuring 25.6mm in diameter. Plus, while it’s an hours, minutes, seconds, date movement, it’s compatible with future modules to introduce more functions.
There are also a host of features associated with many modern, high-end movements such as a silicium escapement for anti-magnetic properties and a variable inertia balance, allowing the rate to be adjusted precisely. Plus, it supplies a 55-hour power reserve, which is pretty solid without needing dramatic mechanisms like a double barrel to extend it further. Arguably the most important thing though is how beautiful it is.
The architecture has been designed from the ground up with Girard-Perregaux’s Three Bridges concept, where everything is positioned along a central axis, held in place by, you guessed it, three bridges. Which is particularly noticeable with the skeletal bridge that holds the balance wheel in place. Alongside the Fifty, GP actually supplied a sample of the GP48,00, which looks just as good out of the case as in it.
It’s the first time and date only calibre under the umbrella of the three bridges design. It doesn’t quite shout about its structure as loudly as a skeletonised model but that’s more than made up for by the use of 10 different finishing techniques across it, including classics like Côtes de Genève, polishing and bevelling.
As for price and availability, the Girard-Perregaux is £22,700 in a limited edition of 200 pieces. Typically I reserve the designation ‘haute horology’ to watches with exceptional complications like tourbillons or perpetual calendars but if there was any time and date watch worthy of the term, it would be this one.
Price and Specs:
More details at Girard-Perregaux.
