H. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer Retrograde Seconds from 2024 is a very memorable watch due to its signature 30-second retrograde display. A frenetic display that sees the seconds hand whip across the dial only to jump back almost instantaneously to start its arc again. In fact, the complication is so memorable and well-liked by collectors that now H. Moser are introducing it across three more models split between the Pioneer, Streamliner and Endeavour ranges. Appropriately named the Pioneer Skeleton Retrograde Seconds, Streamliner Retrograde Seconds and Endeavour Retrograde Seconds respectively.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Skeleton Retrograde Seconds
First up is the Pioneer Skeleton Retrograde Seconds, which is significantly smaller than its non-skeleton counterpart from two years ago. It measures 40mm x 12mm (including sapphire crystal), down from 42.8mm x 14.2mm – a surprisingly dramatic change in size. That change in size is likely due to improvements made to the calibre, now called the HMC 251 rather than 250, along with the removal of material during the skeletonization process that reduces its thickness from 6.5mm to 5.5mm.
Aesthetically, the watch combines dark grey, anthracite bridges with rose gold accents across the central hands, hour markers and titular retrograde seconds function at 6 o’clock. It exposes the rapid motion of the inner workings that operate the 30-second retrograde display. The Pioneer Skeleton Retrograde Seconds is the most expensive of the new trio at £38,000.
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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Retrograde Seconds
The Streamliner is instantly recognisable for its cushion case and integrated bracelet – one of the few integrated bracelet designs that doesn’t owe its heritage to 1970/80s styles or Gerald Genta. Instead, it’s based on the Art Deco influences of its namesake, Streamliner trains from the 1930s. That’s relevant here because the constant motion of the new 30-second retrograde display reminds me of the coupling rods on a train’s wheels.
It’s paired with a blue fumé dial with a sunburst finish. Structurally the watch measures 40mm in steel and houses the HMC 252, which has the same, new profile of 5.5mm as the 251 making it more compact and allowing for the smaller case size. The retrograde seconds module was developed by Agenhor SA. It’s priced at £32,900.
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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Retrograde Seconds
Last in the collection is the Endeavour Retrograde Seconds with a 40mm x 11.2mm case in steel. The Endeavour is in some regards the dressier counterpart to the pioneer with smoother lines and a more delicate silhouette. It also has a lower water resistance rating of 30m compared to the Pioneer’s 120m. The dial features a grey-black fumé gradient and the retrograde seconds display takes pride of place at 6 o’clock.
It’s powered by the same calibre HMC 252 that’s found in the Streamliner edition. It’s priced at £30,700, the lowest of the three watches. However, it is worth noting that all three watches are significantly more expensive than the 2024 original, which is CHF 19,900 (approx. £18,000).
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More details at H. Moser & Cie.
