Mühle-Glashütte has one of the most fascinating brand stories in the entire watchmaking industry, having survived World War Two and the subsequent nationalisation through various names and guises. Their final form is that by which we know them today, Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte, and while their heritage goes back much further, this modern version of the brand is now celebrating their 30th anniversary. In honour of this occasion, they have released the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II GMT.
On a watchmaking level Mühle-Glashütte favours nautically themed watches with timepieces like the S.A.R Rescue Diver and 29er. However, the Teutonia is instead, as its name suggests, is influenced by the traditional style of German watches – Teuton being the ancient Roman word for a Germanic tribe. The German style is something that can be seen in the clean lines of its 41mm steel case and sloping lugs.
Although more overtly German is the style of the dial, which is incredibly precise and minimalist. The hour and minute scale with bar indexes is a classic example of purity of function, clean and uncomplicated. The new 24-hour GMT has been made to stand out in the display by being on a fractionally raised ring with a matte finish. This is the first time that the Teutonia II has been graced with a GMT complication and it’s the perfect addition to the collection.
The GMT is the ultimate travelling businessman’s companion, enabling you to keep track of multiple time zones at the same time – which is incredibly useful if you’re flying across the globe regularly or if you need to phone clients on the other side of the world. To read the 24-hour scale you use the secondary 24-hour hand in light green, a colour that adds a nice accent to the forest green of the main sunray brushed dial.
Beneath the surface of the Teutonia II GMT is the Sellita SW 330-2 automatic with 56-hour power reserve and Mühle’s woodpecker neck regulation, a device designed to improve the shock resistance of the calibre. Additionally, it can be regulated in six positions to ensure an accuracy of 0/+8 seconds per day. It’s a level of precision and quality above your typical Sellita because of Mühle-Glashütte’s heritage in producing precision measurement instruments.
In terms of price, it depends on which of the strap or bracelet options you pick. It’s priced at £2,650 with a regular leather strap, £2,750 with a crocodile leather strap and £2,900 with the five-link steel bracelet. Not exactly accessible, but the level of precision, utility and class that the Teutonia II GMT is very impressive. What more could you possibly want from a smart German timepiece?
Price and Specs:
More details at Mühle-Glashütte.
