If you’ve not heard of Moritz Grossmann before, don’t worry; you will do soon enough. The Glashütte-based watchmaker first launched a decade ago, but there’s enough horological gravitas among their collection that you’d soon forget that little fact. It is interesting to know, however – given we’re in an age of growing equality – that it was the first Swiss watchmaker to ever have been founded by a woman.
Ancient as the Moritz Grossmann name may be, the brand is entirely the brainchild of Christine Hutter. With that in mind, you can understand why we’ve eschewed our normal focus on manly watches for manly men in favour of this spectacular timepiece from the Moritz Grossmann women’s collection.
Let’s be fair, though, that’s not the only reason. The Tefnut Sleeping Beauty would stand out in any line-up. A large part of that is thanks to its aesthetic creator, famed Singaporean and founder of Caratell, Michael Koh. Every inch of the expertise that led to more than his fair share of design awards can be seen at work here.
This isn’t a moon phase, but the lunar crescent is very much the centrepiece of the watch. It not only takes up a good part of the right half of the dial, but the shape is inversely mirrored in the bezel, which thins at the 3 o’clock mark.
Most of the dial is soft mother-of-pearl which looks spectacular on the Ocean Blue variant. Here, the moon itself is almost violet in colour and matched with slightly lighter blue diamonds set into the crescent of the bezel and around the face of the moon. There are also cabochons set into the crown and lugs which, following the asymmetrical theme of the watch, are attached to the main body of the case on just one side.
It’s not just Michael Koh’s expertise on show, however. This is, after all, a serious watchmaker for serious collectors, no matter their gender, and the modified calibre 102.0 shows why. The cantilevered balance cock, the Grossmann poising screws, the raised chatons, the separately removable winder module… there’s a lot to appreciate here.
That said, the Sleeping Beauty does stand out more for its beauty than its mechanics and, between Michael Koh and Moritz Grossmann, they have created what must be one of the most beautiful women’s timepieces around. Not bad for a first try, is it?
Price: €38,400 – €39,400; grossmann-uhren.com