A few months ago we met with Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan at Dubai Watch Week, the team behind the incredibly popular and much-talked-about Toledano & Chan watch brand. With an almost conspiratorial glee they showed us the latest generation of their b/1 series, the ever-so-catchily named Toledano & Chan B1.3r. While the recipe is familiar, the ingredients are brand new.
Starting with the case, it has the signature facetted, brutalist architecture that immediately put the brand on the map when they revealed their debut model. The shape is specifically informed by the designs of Marcel Breuer and his work on the Whitney museum. However, it’s now presented in lightweight titanium at a slightly reduced size of 32mm as opposed to 33.5mm.
Frankly it feels almost mundane in comparison to the last few releases in meteorite and carbon, but it makes a lot of sense for the collection. Titanium is a strong, structural metal so it’s thematically appropriate for the architectural design. It also looks great with its darker shade of grey compared to steel, which contrasts nicely with the dial.
Speaking of which, the dial is what makes this model stand out from any of its predecessors. It’s produced in yellow gold with a ripple texture that emanates from 7 o’clock, radiating outward across the rest of the display. What’s particularly captivating is the micro texture on each of the ripple bands that stop it from being smooth and shiny. Instead, it adds an almost organic quality to it, like the grain of leather or the small undulations seen in ocean swells that haven’t yet capped into waves. Under the facetted crystal that sits above the dial, it makes inspecting the watch under different lighting conditions and angles endlessly fun.
The dial was actually a fairly late change in the design process. Originally the b/1.3r was meant to have another stone dial like the lapis lazuli debut model. However, then the rest of the watch industry decided to release stone dial watches as well. With the stone dial trend played out and threadbare, they decided to change tack in order to push innovation, hence the ripple dial in solid gold.
Beneath the dial is the Sellita SW100 automatic with 42-hour power reserve. A popular movement due to its ease of repair, solid workhorse specs and familiarity across a wide range of independents and microbrands. Though given the updates to the case and dial, it does feel like the movement has been left behind somewhat, especially as the gold dial has increased the price to $10,200 (approx. £7,550) from around the £4,600 mark. However, the fact that I haven’t been able to stop thinking about this watch since seeing it means I can forgive basically anything at this point. It goes on sale 12th February, 8am GMT.
Price and Specs:
More details at Toledano & Chan.
