Founded in 2019 by Thomas Baillod, BA111OD began as a challenge to the inflated pricing of the Swiss watch industry. Combining direct-to-consumer sales with a transparent pricing model, the independent Swiss brand introduced authentic mechanical watches, including flying tourbillons, at a fraction of traditional luxury markups. Built in the Vallée de Joux and driven by innovation, BA111OD has grown from an experiment into a thriving independent watchmaker redefining value and community in modern horology.
We met with Thomas Baillod on a warm, sunny day in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, beginning our conversation over lunch at a restaurant in the central square, before continuing in his watchmaking atelier housed within a historical building in the heart of the city, not far from where we had shared our meal.
How do you build a sustainable Swiss watch brand after disrupting traditional watchmaking?
“It started as a provocation, an experiment to test whether quality Swiss watches could be made and sold transparently, without the bloated markups of the traditional industry. I didn’t even see BA111OD as a brand at first.
But the market proved the concept: 10,000 customers, a committed team, and a growing ecosystem. That forced a shift in my mindset. We evolved from idea to brand, and now the challenge is durability, keeping our promise of accessible luxury while adapting intelligently. As we grow, innovation remains central, but so does pragmatism: high-end models need physical presence, so we are opening retail, without inflating prices. The spirit of experimentation stays alive, just with more structure.”
BA111OD Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon
How do you maintain pricing integrity while scaling a Swiss watch startup?
“Let’s be completely transparent about Swiss watch pricing. I used to apply markups of two times production costs for my Swiss watches, now I multiply by 2.5 or 3, depending on the timepiece complexity. But I am still the least expensive luxury watch brand in the market. I keep my promise of the best value for money in Swiss watchmaking.
The key is rotation, how many times your watch collection rotates in the retail window. My individual margins are lower, but the rotation is much higher than traditional Swiss watch brands.”
How does BA111OD’s team culture differ from traditional Swiss watch manufactures?
“We run on shared ownership and flat hierarchy, everyone has a voice, from the watchmakers to the [intern]. Decisions about our timepieces involve the whole team, not just top-down directives. I still package watches and clean the floors with them because it is not just my name anymore, it is a collective project.
Our structure is organic: I am the father, the designer is the mother, and together we bring ideas to life before presenting them to the team. Sometimes the staff says no, and that’s respected. We even involve our investors and loyal customers, the ‘Godfathers’, in shaping what we create. The goal is not a brand built around one person, but a watchmaking philosophy built around shared values.”
BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Summer Edition 2025
How does BA111OD balance in-house craftsmanship with strategic collaboration?
“Everything is assembled by hand here in our Swiss watch atelier. We are very traditional in our watchmaking, and I want it to be this way. We have our own Swiss watchmakers, our designer Lilian who is brilliant at sketching watch designs. But we collaborate, like with Olivier Mory for the flying tourbillon watch. It is his first flying tourbillon, developed together in six weeks.
We keep the core watchmaking in-house but partner strategically. Even customers can come and assemble watches here in Switzerland. We maintain the human touch in Swiss watchmaking even as AI helps us go faster.”
How is BA111OD using AI to enhance creativity and efficiency in watch design?
“I am a bit of a geek, I have always liked staying ahead of the curve. Every employee at BA111OD has access to ChatGPT+, and they use it daily to streamline tasks and accelerate creative processes. For instance, I once uploaded a photo of a prototype and asked ChatGPT for dial colour suggestions, it gave me dark green, anthracite, and other ideas that sparked design directions.
It is a great tool for early visualisation and rapid iteration. Soon, our designer will be able to extrapolate her ideas, generate high-res renderings, maybe even output CNC-ready plans. But the final decisions? Those still rest with human taste and emotion. AI can boost productivity, but it can’t replicate the subtle intuition of watch design, at least not yet.”
What role does customer feedback play in shaping BA111OD’s watches?
“We have built a feedback loop that goes far beyond typical market surveys. I work with a circle of about forty investors, people in finance, collectors, and technical suppliers, who see everything a year in advance and offer input. We also share prototypes with a core group of early customers.
I listen carefully to what they say, but I don’t let it dictate everything. It is a conversation, not a consensus. AI helps us track customer sentiment, reply to messages, and even draft responses, which boosts our efficiency. But in the end, I follow my instincts. Feedback informs the process, but the final call always rests with us.”
How is BA111OD reshaping collector psychology and the meaning of luxury in watchmaking?
“There is still a strong Veblen effect in the watch world, the belief that a tourbillon priced at a hundred thousand must be better than one at five thousand, simply because it costs more. But we are challenging that logic.
Some collectors still see democratization as devaluation: if everyone can have it, is it still luxury? I have seen people flaunt a $400 bottle of champagne they never intend to drink, luxury as pure spectacle. What we are offering is different. We attract those who value substance over display, people who see a beautifully made, Swiss-crafted tourbillon for what it is, not just what it costs. And increasingly, even high-end collectors with Patek or AP in their safes are adding our watches to their collection, not in spite of our pricing, but because we have reframed what meaningful luxury can look like.”
BA111OD Chapitre 4.1 “Veblen Dilemma” Tourbillon
What kind of customers are drawn to BA111OD, and how do they describe their experience?
“Our customers are dreamers, people who always wanted a tourbillon but never thought it would be within reach. We also attract seasoned collectors who appreciate quality and innovation over branding. These are the ones who bring a great bottle of wine to dinner not for the label, but because they love the taste.
They are not chasing status, they are chasing substance. Many tell us they discovered BA111OD through our conferences or interviews, and what resonated wasn’t just the product, but the philosophy behind it. They say, ‘You are doing things right, and that matters.’ Some even see our watches as investments, not just financially, but emotionally, because they believe in the story we are building.”
Can a Swiss watch brand outgrow its founder, and still stay true to its origins?
“Absolutely, and that’s the goal. I have always said BA111OD should become a philosophy, not just a person. The story is not about me packaging watches or cleaning floors with the team, it is about building something that can stand on its own.
My team is already stepping forward, giving interviews, and making decisions without me. That’s what I want: a brand with values that endure, even as faces change. Look at Richard Mille, the man is still around, but the brand lives beyond him. We are trying to do the same. BA111OD was born in 2019, but I often say it is the oldest historical brand, 1775 in spirit. It existed before me, and it should exist after me, built on the same foundation of transparency, craftsmanship, and human connection.”
BA111OD Chapter 7
What guiding principles would you share with the next generation of independent watchmakers?
“Keep it human. Don’t build a brand just to chase hype or inflate prices, build it to reflect your values. Focus on doing things right: make great products, stay local when you can, and keep your promises to both customers and watchmakers.” His natural speaking ability shines through as he distills years of experience into actionable advice: “I tell newcomers that success in this industry is not about chasing margins alone, it is about understanding the equation: rotation times margin. That’s the real game. And beyond the numbers, never lose sight of the joy. Whether it is preparing a shipment, meeting a customer, or sharing a meal with your team, if it is not fun, it is not worth doing. Respect your craft, respect your clients, and you’ll never be wrong.”
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