While round cases are without question the most widely used in the watch industry, the humble circle is not the only shape to be found in horology. In fact, we have an entire article dedicated to the myriad shapes you can find. However, this month we are focussing on the two prominent styles of case that feature perpendicular, parallel lines. Which is a fancy way of saying watches with rectangular and square cases. This first article is dedicated to the coolest and funkiest square watches you can buy right now – keep an eye out for the rectangles coming soon.
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
The square case of the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph is more rightly described as being television shaped, inspired by the retro technology of the 1970s. Hence the rounded corners and slightly curved edges that create the 40mm design. That covers the Seventies part of the watches name, with the Chronograph Panorama Date portion being a reference to the bicompax chronograph function and the oversize date window at 6 o’clock.
In terms of colour, Glashütte Original release a pair of new limited editions every year and for 2024 those are the Swimming Pool and Watermelon editions. We’ve highlighted the Watermelon because it has a vibrant coral red colour that really hammers home the fun and funky aspects of the design that make this chronograph unique. Inside is the calibre 37-02, which is high end flyback chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Glashütte Original.
Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf
Tag Heuer’s Monaco chronograph is arguably the most famous square cased watch of all time, dating back to 1969. It has been made legendary by its unique style and big screen appearances, featuring on the wrist of Steve McQueen in Le Mans – one of which is set for auction in December. In fact, it’s this connection that has led to what is one of the collection’s most iconic colourways, the Gulf Edition.
As one of the premier racing sponsors of the mid-19th century, Gulf’s colours became inextricably linked to motorsport. As such, Tag Heuer, who are also closely connected with the racing scene, created several special editions in the same colours of blue, white and orange. It has the classic tricompax layout of chronograph markings with squircle (square with rounded corners) subdials. Powering this GPHG awarded watch (it won the Iconic Watch Prize in 2022) is the Heuer Calibre 02, an automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Tag Heuer.
Cartier Santos de Cartier
Where the Tank is one of the most well known rectangular watches, the Santos is equally well known when it comes to square watches. It’s technically the first professional pilot’s watch ever produced, because it was the first watch specifically produced for a practicing pilot, Santos-Dumont. While it’s very different to the style of watch we now consider to be a pilot’s watch, you can see some of the early aspects of that design philosophy such as its durability and large display for added legibility – hence being square.
This sporty edition with a blue bezel highlights the industrial aspects of the design. It’s almost reminiscent of the wide bezels found on the designs of Gerald Genta, giving the piece a sporty aesthetic akin to watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus or AP Royal Oak, but in square form rather than octagonal or porthole shape. It measures 39.8mm in diameter and houses the 1847 MC calibre with a 40-hour power reserve. The wider design of the square Santos compared the Tank makes it a staple of men’s fashion on the red carpet.
Price and Specs:
More details at Cartier.
Brew Metric Black Automatic PVD
With square watches you can forgive a certain amount of curvaceousness in the lines of the case but really the Brew Metric is pushing its luck in terms of whether you’d define it as a square case or a cushion case. Regardless of which definition you prefer, I think it’s definitely worth including here because it offers a genuinely accessible take on square(ish) shaped design.
All of Brew’s designs are inspired by the art of brewing a good coffee and while this edition of the Metric doesn’t have some of the coffee related scales found on other references, it still has the cool retro appearance of a coffee machine. The bold lines, broad hour markers and distinct typeface all give the vibe of a device George Clooney might advertise for. As this watch is focused on a more accessible price point, the movement inside is the well regarded work horse Seiko NH35A.
Price and Specs:
More details at Brew Watches.
Bell & Ross BR03
The majority of Bell & Ross’ watches are inspired by the instrument panels in planes and boats, hence the industrial design of their square cases. They look like they could have been unscrewed from a cockpit and strapped straight to your wrist. Especially the BR03 with its visible screws in the four corners of its 41mm diameter case.
That 41mm sizing is actually relatively new as the collection had a comprehensive overhaul in the autumn of last year, introducing a slightly slimmer design with a cleaner aesthetic and improved movement. Alongside there being eight new references in multiple colours including some ceramic editions. The improvement to the movement was quite a big deal as now that it has a 54-hour power reserve, it feels much more appropriate for its price bracket. Specifically the movement is the BR-CAL.302, which is based on the Sellita SW300-1 a.
Price and Specs:
More details at Bell & Ross.
Raymond Weil Freelancer 2790
One of the most striking watches Raymond Weil produce is the Freelancer 2790. It’s part of a square-cased sub-collection inside the Freelancer range with broad 40mm designs featuring rounded corners. It’s kind of a hybrid between Raymond Weil’s incredibly dressy Toccata range and the sporty watches that are more typical of the Freelancer series.
What makes the Freelancer 2790 really stand out though is the exposed balance wheel at 6 o’clock, which adds a frenetic energy to the piece. The dial itself is otherwise very restrained and with a slight gradient and bath tub-like hour markers. The overall impression is one of contrasting elements with the sporty, modern case opposite the more elegant aspects of the design to create a characterful timepiece. The movement which is visible though the openworked portion of the dial or the exhibition caseback is the RW1212 with 41-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Raymond Weil.
Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart
Rado are the self-proclaimed Master of Materials and as such they enjoy pushing the boundaries of shape and style when it comes to their ceramic watches. The True Square presents the exceptionally hard to work with material in square form, leaning into the modern style. Here the ceramic case measures 38mm in diameter with flowing lines that follow from bracelet to bracelet around the square design.
As for the display, it’s openworked in order to show as much of the inner workings of the movement as possible. It’s worth noting that openworking and skeletonization are technically different disciplines, as skeletonised watches also remove material from the movement itself, allowing you to see through the entire watch from top to bottom. Whereas here the movement is full intact. Specifically, the movement is the 03.734.431 with impressive 80-hour power reserve. You can admire the Geneva stripes style finishing through both the dial and exhibition caseback.
Price and Specs:
More details at Rado.
Herbelin Cap Camarat Square Automatic
Herbelin are a French brand who love to employ the aesthetic styles of integrated sports watches. The Cap Camarat in particular features a broad bezel and visible screws, bringing to mind the design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, albeit in either round or square form as we have here. The square design really suits the collection with its clean lines and symmetry.
In terms of specs, it measures 39mm in diameter with a 100m water resistance rating. The dial, available in a couple of colours including blue, has a horizontal striped pattern that enhances the sporty vibes of the piece. Powering the Herbelin Cap Camarat Square is the automatic Sellita Calibre SW200-1 with 41-hour power reserve. A widely used work horse movement that helps the watch remain accessible at €899 (approx. £765).
Price and Specs:
More details at Herbelin.
Marloe Watch Company Astro Stellar
The Marloe Watch Company Astro is inspired by the art of space travel, from the real life International Space Station to the fictional ships in Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. That manifests itself most apparently in the honeycomb texture of the dial found in the corners of the square display. This pattern emulates the texture of the pentagonal tunnel seen in Kubrick’s film as well as other spacefaring objects such as the James Webb Telescope.
The square case measures 38mm x 38mm and has a lugless design. Which means the strap integrates seamlessly into the side of the case. There are quite a few styles of strap available, including rubber straps, a 3-link bracelet, a Milanese bracelet, fabric straps and leather straps. Which gives you plenty of choice to mix and match colours and style. Inside the Marloe Watch Company Astro is the Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Marloe Watch Company.
Nice article, I love the new Raymond Weil Freelancer 2790! Such a cool looking watch.